Best guidebook for technical climbing on Colorado's 14ers?


Original Post
Emilio Rivera · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 260

A lot of the guidebooks seem to show the fastest and path of least resistance to the top. Looking specifically for:

Capitol's Knife Edge

Carson's Prow

Long's Peak (technical routes)

Bear/Blanca Traverse 

And a couple of others...

Thanks in advance.

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 28

Richard Rossiter's and Bernard Gillett's guidebooks to RMNP cover Long's Peak pretty thoroughly . Gerry Roach's guidebook, Colorado's Fourteeners, covers the other 3 routes you named. MP's route guide database for Colorado is pretty thorough.

 https://www.rei.com/product/678505/rocky-mountain-national-park-the-climbers-guide-high-peaks

https://www.rei.com/product/816306/fulcrum-colorados-fourteeners-from-hikes-to-climbs-3rd-edition

https://www.amazon.com/Rocky-Mountain-National-Richard-Rossiter/dp/0989515672/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1492636173&sr=1-2&keywords=Richard+Rossiter

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 290

Capitol's Knife Edge is not a technical climb, so you're ok there. The description from 14ers.com was all I used when I did it. I think most people also do the Little Bear/Blanca Traverse as a scramble, but I haven't done it myself so can't comment.

Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,065

^^^

14ers.com will be very useful.  Browse through the trip reports and you should find plenty of good info.  If you don't, just create an account and ask your questions in the forums.  There's a lot of helpful people on that site.  

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,793

There is some nice information (topos, many pictures, etc)  at the LA Mountaineers website that includes a bunch of the climbs that you are considering. See here:

http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/other/climlist/clindex.htm

Emilio Rivera · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 260

Thanks!

Has any done any comparing between the older Dawson guide and newer Roach guide? Are they pretty similar?

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 28
aikibujin wrote: I think most people also do the Little Bear/Blanca Traverse as a scramble, but I haven't done it myself so can't comment.

Little Bear to Blanca is best done as a scramble. The whole thing is quite loose, and finding decent anchors to pitch it out would eat up a dangerous amount of time. The NW Face is a better approach to the traverse than the Hourglass Couloir, it's not subject to as much rockfall.

Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

A Rock Climbers Guide To Castlewood Canyon State Park Colorado.

Oh.  You meant 14,000 footers, not 14 footers?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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