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What climb is this? (J-Tree)

Original Post
Ben LC · · San Francisco · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 70

Hey! Last day in J-Tree and my guidebook has this random picture without a route annotated - Anyone has a clue what this is? I think it is somewhere around Indian Cove or Rattlesnake canyon

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,658

firewater chimney at rattlesnake canyon

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

One of the better climbs in Jtree.  Miramontes had it on the cover of his first edition with another full page color photo inside his guide.  5 clips over 80'. Crux is well protected.  Up and out of Rattlesnake Canyon in the Valley of the Kings on a feature named Arrowhead.  It would be smart to combine this with another ultra classic, Big Horn Dihedral at the same grade.  Those two make for a full day.

Ben LC · · San Francisco · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 70

Thanks to both of you! I'll have to save Bighorn for next time due to limited time, but both these climbs look really beautiful. Bookmarking it for next time ;)

Murf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 2,060

Dow Williams - Super curious about how you did Firewater Chimmney and Bighorn Dihedral in a day.  Any detail on that ( what approach did you use, tips on how to get from one to another)?

Jack C. · · Calgary, AB · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

That's creepy.  I saw that guidebook cover today on the web and was going to ask the very same question on here.  Really cool looking chimney.

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50

I wouldnt say the crux is well protected, The third bolt is hard to reach for all but the tallest climbers, and its the crux. You'd take a nasty pendulum-ish fall close to the rocks. The second clip is pretty sketchy too, a loose/innatentive belay could drop you to the deck there. Not a reason to skip the climb though, its really beautiful, if you can handle the 3 mile approach

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50

Also, I respectfully request that people consider not using, or at least using very little chalk, the chimney is protected from what little rain falls on J-tree, and the rock is soo pretty, its sad to hike way into the backcountry only to find one of the most pretty rocks in the park is obscured by chalk. Thanks!

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Murf, I am in Canyonlands right now, but you can pm me and I will give you more detail when I am back home at my desk.  They are actually quite close.  Both remote to get to, Big Horn, most would start at the top, for Firewater, most would start from Indian Cove.  The smoothest, if you are not going to camp up there, is to shuttle.  Start on top, descend, do Bighorn.  Continue descending, do Firewater, exit Indian Cove.  That makes for a very reasonable day.  Descending the whole way.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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