Best place to stay in Yosemite late Sept.


Original Post
Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Would like to celebrate my 50th with a first time out to Yosemite and hit a few single pitch 5.8 - 5.9 sport routes.  Happy just to just visit the place to be honest but a pitch or two would make it that much better.  I have read a bunch but don't have a good understanding of where to stay vs. where to climb.  I was thinking Tuolumne Meadows but depending on what I read/who I talk to it is either still hot in Sept or snowing.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 200
Blakevan wrote:

Would like to celebrate my 50th with a first time out to Yosemite and hit a few single pitch 5.8 - 5.9 sport routes.  Happy just to just visit the place to be honest but a pitch or two would make it that much better.  I have read a bunch but don't have a good understanding of where to stay vs. where to climb.  I was thinking Tuolumne Meadows but depending on what I read/who I talk to it is either still hot in Sept or snowing.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hey Blake. Sept in the Meadows is usually ideal. You can make resos for the campground now and if you are there after Labor Day it should be no trouble. The beauty of the Park and Eastside is that if gives you enormous flexibility to dial in ideal conditions. If it's hot, there is Tuolumne, if its cold, there is the Valley or if "middlin'" then you can climb from 9,000 to 7,000 to 6,000 down to 4,000 on the Eastside between Yosemite and Bishop depending on what the weather is doing and find what is just right. All of it is world class fun-hogging.

The routes put up by Barnes et al on Medlicott or some of the new routes (found on MP) out by Cathedral peak are well protected.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
Blakevan wrote:

...and hit a few single pitch 5.8 - 5.9 sport routes. 

Do you mean fully bolted in a sport manner? If so, I don't think there are any. Yes, there are fully bolted routes in that grade, but they're not sport routes, and even many of those also require trad gear. Yosemite does not have many sport routes and most are 5.11 and up.

Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

I don't mind what we call sprad routes just need them to be moderates because a 5.8 granite feels like a 5.10c limestone to me.  Thank you for the replies.

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 115

It sounds like you are not bringing trad gear at all?

Here is a thought:  every year in Yosemite Valley, at the end of September, there is an event called Facelift.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2963500&msg=2963500#msg2963500

Great event with lots of cool slideshows in the evenings.  Usually on Sat night there is a climber organized event called Meatfest which is a potluck barbeque.  A ton of climbers go and stay at all the campgrounds.  They have reserved campsites for the volunteers in all of the campgrounds.  People usually pick up trash in the AM and climb in the afternoon, or vice versa.  It's usually easy to find a partners for climbing at various grades, and everyone will have their gear.  So time your visit to coincide with Facelift and you would probably not be restricted to climbing sport routes.

End of Sept in the Valley can be hot, but it can also be rainy.  If it's rainy in the Valley, it's probably snowy in the Meadows.  End of Sept in the Meadows can be lovely, but it can also be freezing.  I've had my water bottle freeze overnight over Labor Day weekend in the Meadows. The reality is, it's silly to try to predict mountain weather.

I'm too lazy to go into the other room to get my books, but in the Valley, I can think of only a few easy sport routes.  They are on the right side of Pat & Jack Cliff.  These are true sport routes.  There is one sport route at Church Bowl that used to be rated 5.9 and I think is now rated 10.a.  In the meadows, there are some fairly well bolted routes at 5.8ish on Dozier Dome.  Like Erret by Bit.  But I think you need a couple of pieces for the first pitch.You can also easily set up topropes at the Western Front section of Daff Dome in the Meadows..

Just look at this site for those areas for details.

Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Wow, that does look cool.  Thank you!

I have a complete rack (full set of nuts, tri-cams and double cams from .5 up to #4 BD) that I will bring and I have a guide book but it always seems the first trip to anywhere is spent just getting to know the place.  I think that will be times 10 in Yosemite because of the sheer size.  

Mitch Alexander · · SLO, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0
Blakevan wrote:

Wow, that does look cool.  Thank you!

I have a complete rack (full set of nuts, tri-cams and double cams from .5 up to #4 BD) that I will bring and I have a guide book but it always seems the first trip to anywhere is spent just getting to know the place.  I think that will be times 10 in Yosemite because of the sheer size.  

In my experience, gear routes in Yosemite are usually much less scary than the bolted routes, especially in Tuolumne where "knob climbing" refers to standing on pebbles. If you are comfortable placing gear there are tons of 5.6-5.9 routes that are safe and fun. Puppy Crack would be a good place to start as it is a 2 minute walk from the parking lot and 5.6 to get a feel for granite and gear placements. Have fun!

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 115

If you are bringing that big of a rack, you will have no problem.  I agree that the crack routes are generally much less scary than the all bolted routes, which tend to be more runout and require a feel for slab technique.  The first time in a place, the most typically difficult thing is just finding the cliffs!  In the Valley, both Church Bowl and Pat and Jack are very easy to find and both have very short approaches. Good stuff both places up to 5.8. If you do the amazing Bishops Terrace, 5.8 and feel good on that, Jam Crack, to the right of Yosemite Falls is easy to find and wonderful.  In the Meadows, Cathedral Peak is easy to find although a longer approach and the Southeast Buttress is amazing.  Dozier Dome is also easy to find.  I've done about a dozen routes over there and they have all been nice.  Lot's there in your range.  Holdless Horror, 5.6, is a blast!!  Really there is just so much to do the recommendation list can go on and on.  Once you actually know what the weather is going to be and where you are going to be climbing, bump your thread, and be specific about what you are looking for...

Blakevan · · Dallas, TX · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks guys!  Looking forward to this like nothing else I've done in climbing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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