JT your favorite routes up to 5.9!


Original Post
Chris Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Hi all, I'm heading out to JT. Want to hear you all talk about your favorite leads up to 5.9!!! Want to make a quick tick list!

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,470

Use the 'best routes for you in this area' feature on the Joshua Tree page and have it filter 3 stars and up, 5.9 and under. Print list. Enjoy.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Do you have one of the guidebooks? The star systems are good for determining quality climbs.

Downtownt Kay · · Everett, WA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 110

popes crack, walk on the wild side, tumbling rainbow, sail away, dazed and confused, dappled mare

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

Touch and Go, Pope's Crack, Walk on the Wild Side (although maybe be a 5.10 leader for this one), Double Cross, Toe Jam, Sail Away, White Lightning- basically, if its a classic, do it. In an area like JTree, where every crack on every rock has been climbed, its best to stick to the 3-4 star routes for the first few visits, otherwise you'll climb alot of choss.

Chris Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Hi, to clarify, I climb JT but just breaking into leading 5.9, did moosedog a few weeks back. I just love hearing the locals favorites to add something to my list! What's more fun than sharing our favorite routes with other climbers!? Tumbling rainbow, dappled mare and right on are on my potential list for this trip. Possibly. Northwest overhang and cryptic if they aren't packed!!! It's gonna be 80 degrees, what's in the shade?? 

Downtownt Kay · · Everett, WA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 110

also, i LOVED The FLake

Downtownt Kay · · Everett, WA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 110
Chris Adams wrote:

Hi, to clarify, I climb JT but just breaking into leading 5.9, did moosedog a few weeks back. I just love hearing the locals favorites to add something to my list! What's more fun than sharing our favorite routes with other climbers!? Tumbling rainbow, dappled mare and right on are on my potential list for this trip. Possibly. Northwest overhang and cryptic if they aren't packed!!! It's gonna be 80 degrees, what's in the shade?? 

moosedog was kind of a one move wonder in my opinion, but a fun feature to top out on...

Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 681

Catch a Falling Star is pretty stinkin' fun and you can bust it out super quick as it is right next to the parking lot. Could be a good alternative to Cryptic if it is crowded.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

The guidebooks also provide sun/shade information.

Steve_Sil. · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 75
Tim Heid · · AZ · Joined May 2009 · Points: 2,105

For what it's worth (not much)--I didn't think Cryptic was anything special. But if you can get to the top of the Headstone at night, it's a neat little place to watch the stars. 

Obviously tons of great climbs in J-tree under 5.9, but I'd say Sail Away is my favorite.  A few years ago I climbed it every morning for almost 3 weeks straight! 

Suz Zak · · New Haven, CT · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 50

Just did my first 5.9 lead in Josh recently, Popular Mechanics. Beautiful climb and stays shady! It has some committing moves but after each one there's a great foot stance for gear placement.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/popular-mechanics/105723478

Greg Opland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 167
ShanJ2me · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 825

Sail Away! So many areas to check out! Definitely stay with the 3 and 4 star routes if its your first visit. Enjoy the your trip, so Jealous!!

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Not bad suggestions from most.  A few comments.

If it's hot, the White Cliffs of Dover is good.  If it's not, it'll be cold.  Ace of Spades is another good 5.9 out there as well.  You can try Baskerville Right (.10a) and Tossed Greens (also .10a) on the way.

Overseer is great.  If you're there, you can try Prepackaged, which used to be rated 5.9 but has been bumped up to .10a.  

I like Sphincter Quits, though some feel it's heady getting established in the thin crack part way up.  Need lots of thin pro and know how to place it well.

Popular Mechanics and Cryptic are great (though the latter is short, but with good moves).

Dazed and Confused is terrific.  My Laundry is good, though it can get plastered with bird poop.

Dappled Mare is only 5.8, but good fun.  

North Overhang is fun with good exposure.  Just a couple of hard moves but don't blow them.  

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

In no order, Young Lust, Double Dogleg, Bacon Flake, Sphincter Quits, Double Cross, Dharma Bums (5.8!!) ..... that should get you going. I love the Rock Garden Valley, go thier and climb


Have fun 

Chris Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

You guys have me frothing!!! Moosedoggy was for sure a one move wonder. 

Randy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,521

Lots of good suggestions, and a few perhaps not so...

White Cliffs and Hound Rocks would provide potentially a few shady climbs: 

An Eye To The West (5.9)

Right Baskerville (10a)

Tossed Green (10a)

Popular Mechanics (5.9)

Ace of Spades (5.9, sorta a variation to Pop Mech)

Upper Freeway Wall (very early morning shade) & Tiny Tots Rock (afternoon shade)

Nobody Walks in LA (5.9)

Cake Walk (5.8)

Dinky Doinks (5.8)

Rock Garden Valley (afternoon shade)

Spitwad (5.9)

Euthyphro (5.8+)

Young Lust (5.8)

Smithereens (5.8+)

Rock Candy (5.9)

Double Dogleg (5.7)

Split Personality (5.9 variation to DD)

Hemingway Buttress (afternoon shade)

Overseer (5.9)

White Lightning (5.7+)

Feltoneon Physics (5.8)

Prepackaged (10a)

Old Man & The Poodle (5.8)

For Whom The Poodle Tolls (5.9)

A Farewell to Poodles (5.9)

Head Over Heals (10a)

LOTS MORE.


ZZZZZ is good, but kinda scary if 5.9 is hard for you. (5.9 R)

Same for Stick To What (10a R)


Greg Opland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 167

ZZZZZ is good, but kinda scary if 5.9 is hard for you. (5.9 R)

Same for Stick To What (10a R)

Wow...rain on a guy's suggestions.   :-)

Brent Kelly · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 20

Invisibility Lessons at Split Rocks. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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