Mountain Project Logo

Sizing Katana Lace for Cracks

Original Post
Caz Drach · · Sugarhouse, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

I know there are a million threads on the same thing but it appears everyone has a specific use for the shoe - steep sport, bouldering, etc. which requires different sizing. Im looking for a more aggresive trad shoe and for thinner cracks

So my question is I have the TC Pros in a 42.5 and the shoes stretched a half size for sure and have a slight toe bend / curl and is a perfect compromise for some all day comfort, cracks, and some edging. Picked up the Katanas in the same size which seemed to be a general consensus for the TC vs Katanas, my toes seem to be moderately knucked... 

Will they stretch some to be good for cracks? or should i have just got 43

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Katanas do not stretch much.  Since TC Pros are leather, they stretch quite a bit.  Sized the same way, Katanas will be performance edging while TC Pros will be all-day comfort.  I would size up from Pros.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

My TC, when new, was fitted w/ a touch of big toe bend & more bending of the smaller toes. It stretched to tight but flat toes all across before the 1st resole. My KL, half size larger has more toe bend across, even on its 2nd resole. But if I compare the 2 pairs, the KL is a bit longer. I think part of it is the toe box of the KL just doesn't stretch as much (to conform): my big toe doesn't fit to the most pointy part of the toe box and the shoe tapers a bit much for the other 4 toes. Still, the KL climbs thin cracks better than the TC for me. Depending on your foot shape, the Kataki (should be wider & more asymmetric, i.e., straighter big toe) may fit better. Otherwise, I'd recommend upsize.

Jeremy Kasmann · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Same for me in that KL fits more aggressive than TC in the same size.  I like it that way, because I use the TCs for moderates and long routes, and the KL for harder and shorter routes.  KL conforms enough that it feels fine jamming cracks (even with knuckled toes), but they aren't sized for jamming thin hands at Indian Creek all day.  A lot probably depends on foot shape and rock/route style.

Caz Drach · · Sugarhouse, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

thanks for all the responses

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483

Had 40.5 tc, started with knuckle to big toe, stretched to almost flat for big toe. Smaller toes were slightly knuckled. Didn't really jam well under #1 cracks.

41.5 katana lace, curl to big toe with no knuckle. Can easily slide into .75 cracks and medium size pods on finger cracks, much better than the TC for me. Left wiggle room for little toes, for the thinnest edging this is obviously a downside and the shoe can roll slightly. That wiggle room makes the shoe torque into cracks more securely though and allows it to smear better. I really like em on granite. I would have gone with a 41 to give them better edging, but it knuckled my little toes too much, made smearing rand/wiggling in small side too hard. Note my second toe is same length as big toe when stretched out flat, rather blunt profile to little toes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply