Lady Luck, or: Ropeless Red Rocks, continued . . .


Original Post
Reinhard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

By taking the arete right of the nice 5.6 corner, the whole thing becomes a 5.4 cruise up the face -- except for the final hand crack, which is really and truly 5.7 (but not harder!)  This I've also observed on Rising Moons, on the first crux of Solar Slab, and many other places, not only in RR: if you're ropeless, you're free to choose your route without regard to protection possibilities -- the Freedom Of The Hills -- and away from a corner the face is often more featured.  Honestly, I found the climbing more classically challenging on Rising Moons (where the preceding definitely applies) -- but how many other places can you cruise for hundreds of feet at such a consistently moderate level?

Approach: a well-beaten trail leads up to the rightmost of the three overhanging toadstools.  Scramble past this on R: you will see the the horn of Big Sky above and to the left.

Descent (revised from my description in Ropeless Red Rocks): About 200' west and above the big pine, head down the first main gully west of the rappel route gully.  Head more or less straight down, keeping skiers left; you'll see (climbers left and above) the scary slab with a huge flake waiting to slide down it that you would have had to cross on the old route.  When you come to a dramatically wide chimney, you'll know you are on route.  Perhaps 5.7; the crux in the chimney is finding a hold hidden in the  (skiers) right wall.  When you get to the (not large) pine tree, begin a long rightward traverse to the far east side of the main gully.  Then follow slabs and slots, 97% facing out, till you get to the pine tree and bushy area where the descent from Algae joins.  This is your best bet to get into the nice 45 degree gully leading to the top of Rising Moons.  But beware of loose red blocks guarding the overhanging top.  I avoided these with very wide bridging.

Adventure Chumps · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

I'm not sure encouraging people to go off route in Red Rock on untested holds is the greatest idea while soloing. I've seen my fair share of large seemingly solid stuff snap randomly....

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

I can't figure out if these posts are trip reports, beta, or just spray.

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5

Andrew Yasso · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 90

shhhhhh

mcarizona · · Flag · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 25

HEY!  some of us still rope up for that wall - love that strawberry wall easy stuff....

Steve

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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