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Offset cams - which?


Original Post
Joe Trabucco · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Hello,


I was able to try my buddies' x4 offsets this weekend and thought they are nice. However, I like totem basic hybrids, and think those are better quality. What does the community recommend for offset cams?

I know they are used more for aid climbing, but in Colorado, they have many uses in free climbing (lumpy, eldo, etc).

Thank you

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

I really like the Metolius Offset Mastercams. The X4s are nice too, but I have a lot more of the Mastercams and they rock. Should also note that I've often found the regular Totem cams to work better in piton scars and flares than any of my offsets. There really are few things more satisfying than an offset that fits perfectly in a crack. Always makes me want to give that product designer/engineer a high five. 

calebmmallory · · Seattle, N.Carolina, &Hong… · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 425

Here in WNC I use my .3/.2 and .5/.4 X4's quite often as much of the rock is flaring in places (Linville Gorge primarily). I can think back to some routes out on lumpy and in eldo where I would have liked to have had them as well. I'm considering getting the full set now except the .75/.5 which I don't think will be of much use. 

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

I don't have any experience with the Totems, but I definitely like my offset Mastercams more than my offset X4s, fwiw.

DrApnea · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 255

Regular totems. Nothing else needed. They will equalize in offset placements and work in parallel sides just as well.  I've had multiple offsets of different brands and sold almost all except one set to supplement my totems.

Joe Trabucco · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I already have totem basic regular.  I don't feel a need to buy non-basic totems.    

My question is more about which offset cams do most prefer, with the exception of non-basic totems.   

I don't think they Metollius master cam offset anymore, right?   I can't find them   

Thanks. 

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

Whoa, had no idea Metolius stopped making the offsets. Too bad, I love mine. The X4 are good, I guess just get those.

Joe Trabucco · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Anyone have experience with totem basic hybrids(offsets)?

Mike Flanagan · · Redlands, CA · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 55

Totem basic offsets are great. I love those and my old metolous offset Mastercams.

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95
Joe Trabucco wrote:

Anyone have experience with totem basic hybrids(offsets)?

Yes. They are great. All the advantages of the classic offset aliens, but improved design and better manufacturing.

I've had chances to use the offset versions of mastercams, x4s and basics. The offset basics are the best, by a wide margin. They have the most flexible stem and feel "grippy" from the softer metal. Both contribute to them performing better in tricky or marginal placements.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Metolius hasn't stopped making the offsets. They are moving them over to their new, light weight stem and may not have them in full production yet.

I love my Totems but I have to say, I believe the Metolius Offset Master Cams to be better in pins scars. Once you get up to the green and red Totem size, it's a toss up, but in the smaller sizes, the Master Cams are my choice. 

rozaosa · · Mordor · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 10

If anyone knows where to get more totems please let me know! I just got a set of basics and want to get a set of hybrids but it looks as if they are sold out everywhere I've looked.  

Stanley McKnight · · Paradise Valley, Arizona · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 268

+1 for the mastercams over the x4's. The head is just a little bit narrower and in my experience they seem to fit better. Mark's right, they should start showing up again sometime in the new ultralight design, but as of now aren't being sold. Might have to wait a little if you want a new set 

Joe Trabucco · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I have the regular totem basics and love them, so I figured the hybrids were amazing as well.  I also have metollius UL master cams, and love them, so I'm sure I'd love their offsets too.  Might have to settle for totem hybrids, which isn't a bad decision.

To answer your question alex, bentgate mountaineering in golden, co has them all the time. check out their website if you don't live in CO.

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 58

I've been using the Metolius offset master cams for years on just about every type of rock with great success.  The Metolius website no longer shows this item, instead they have offset TCU's.  The offset master cams have 4 heads, while the TCU's have 3.  You can still find the offset master cams on the web, Mountain Gear has them on sale right now.  

Joe Trabucco · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

what size metollium master cam offsets do you find to be the best/most useful?

thanks, Idaho bob

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 58

Joe, I use the #2-#5 frequently in both horizontal and vertical placements.  Occasionally use the #1.  Rarely use the #0. 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 200

Totem regulars in yellow, blue and black.   Totem basics for anything below the Regular black.   BTW  this is a Totem Regular.

Nathan.H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

I had two complete sets of Mastercam Offsets.  Then I bought 1 set of Totem Basic Offsets (3 sizes).  I found that the the 3 Totem Offsets exactly matched the three sizes of Offset Mastercams I used most (1,2,3 or 2,3,4...I'm not sure anymore).  Also, I found that, for me, the small BD C3 cams were more reliable than the smallest Mastercam Offsets. So I sold all my Mastercam Offsets and bought more Totem Offsets.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 300

Any other offset TCU fans out there? Especially curious about using them in horizontals, I (and a lot of other Gunks climbers) feel a little dubious about Mastercams in horizontals.

Joe Trabucco · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

anyone know what the 3 totem basic hybrids sizes translate in X4 offsets or master cam offsets??

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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