Moab Area TR Wide Cracks


Original Post
Sean A Smith · · South Salt Lake, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

I'm heading to Moab/IC and would like to work on my wide crack technique. Does anyone know of any offwidth in the 5.9-5.10 range that can be set up on TR from a 5.11 or easier?  Thanks!

Petroclimbsagain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

My crotchety old guy opinion, is to put on some long sleves, tape everything down, tape your face, get some big peices, and go for it.  You can always walk a peice with you and pretty much be on toprope (in the wide stuff) all the time.  Just make sure you ate your wheaties, and remember that when youre moving it, you're not protected.  

Sean A Smith · · South Salt Lake, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

I figured someone would say something like this.  I'm looking for a route name.

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

Way nutter. 

Mike W. · · Des Moines, IA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 340

Way nutter is a great easier offwidth to just go for it on. Also, at the Scarface wall a few climbs to the left of wavy gravy there is a short offwidth called the Fat Farm. You can climb the unnamed 5.9 to its right to set up a TR on it. There is a big ledge that you walk across, not sketchy either.  They are both pretty short climbs, 30' I'd say. 

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 60

After those, Low cholesterol and the potato on second meat wall, and a couple leftwards  on Blue gramma cliff. Haley's heyday and dawn of an age. Also desire on Way Rambo.

For TR is go with someone who can set them.

wolfsburgweekender · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Try walk on the wide side! Wall Street! You have to lead it but it'll be "fun"! 

Sean A Smith · · South Salt Lake, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

Thanks for the suggestions!  We ended up getting on Way Nutter and another Unnamed 5.10 with some wide stuff in the same area.  I'll log the rest of these for the next trip.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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