Big Wall Practice Near Central Jersey


Original Post
Jeffo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

Hi All,

Any recommendations for places near central New Jersey that I could visit for some big wall practice sessions?

Optimal locations include:

1. Any size wall really, 

2. G rated (bomber pro options) or Bolts...bolt ladders even better.

3. Not a trade route like anything at the gunks (but if people have Gunks route suggestions that are out of the way, i'm game)

Mostly I want to practice my systems, so i'm not looking for aid sequence practice, but rather hauling, portaldege setup, etc.

Thanks!

J

Conor Mark · · Asheville, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 590

Allamuchy State Park just outside Hackettstown has a hand full of small walls close to the road, on the east wall you're guaranteed to be alone. If I recall, there are also some other small cliffs if you continue straight uphill from the main wall a couple minutes. 

Jeffo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25
Conor Mark wrote:

Allamuchy State Park just outside Hackettstown has a hand full of small walls close to the road, on the east wall you're guaranteed to be alone. If I recall, there are also some other small cliffs if you continue straight uphill from the main wall a couple minutes. 

Hey. Thanks. Was there this weekend with my son, on the practice wall. 

The east wall...clean or moss covered?

Dave22 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

East wall isn't to clean, not bad though. Cake wall is small but usually empty. There are a few unused routes between main wall and cake. And I've never seen anyone up on tic tac toe wall. I was there today and had the whole place to myself.

GilaShot · · Western Antarctic, New Engl... · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

Any of the steeper routes in the Water Gap would probably work.  The can be a little loose, but they don't get much traffic.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85

You all in Nj still don't get it!

FREE THE PALISADES ! <\b>

Get the climbing businesses to lobby to open something!

The walls at Garret Mnt , the Great Falls of Patterson, then the place I spent 20 yrs putting up climbs. . . . . . .

.

for the record I have no idea why this is now printing in bold ?

I'm not a fan of the needless changes.

.

I did not want to bump this.

J Grunenberg & M Freeman

can take credit for many of the hard leads in NJ. as he morfed into "Bones" Jeff had a need to feed.

Bones, Milesky, Siacca, Hauser, the Schlaul brothers, the Kondraci brothers,

And BEFORE THEM  Vic. Benish, Jim Kalicatronis TYE KNEFF,

so please the ideas of climbing in Nj go way back,

 Shockley's Ceiling, 1953, that Shockly worked and climbed in Berkley Heights.

and people climbed on the 'Heights' in the 1800s.

 The term "Cliff -Hanger" comes from the Nj Silent Film industry.

 (the Powerlinez were not 1st "found" in this century or the last; they were encompassed in the "Jersey Highlands" )

there were substantial cliffs quarried into rip-rap to build the jersey highways as well

the transit company cliff? Bolts there too but now they are sketchy

 has any one been climbing behind the bar -there are bolts-  its in Suffren

As for the history of bolts at Water loo, 84(?) Luchou showed up and placed some bolts

on a line that moved (?) left to right, and then back  instead of straight up.

those hard to place and well spaced bolts got chopped by some one who did a piss poor job

I went up and tried to file off the sharp remains with mixed results.

now ? I've not been back to see, but the pictures of the place, stories of a lame "pay-me" carnival sound

like a mess for such a limited zone.

up Rt 206 a ways, right by Cranberry lake,  is an amazing bluff of rock that is now private, but climbable.

John Anderson has told me, he has access.

I've waited till I'm to old to care; but there is a lot of rock from Morris county to both state lines.

What gives at the Wiess Ecology Center? Ring wood "The Pine Paddies" ?  

I emailed " Michael C" a copy of my guide, in hopes he would spread the word.

there was an anchor at Wtchung I hear.

I remember when there were trees up there!

Dave22 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Jersey has alot of nice climbing, unfortunately we can't be trusted to pump our own gas.

A couple of moths ago I was on the Palisades in NY State looking at the cliffs. My wife knew what I was thinking when she reminded me bail and fines would be kind of expensive.

I'm surprised Moochy is still open to climbing someone is getting into bolting routes and putting in anchors.

Conor Mark · · Asheville, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 590

The hike into Allamuchy is significantly shorter and easier than anywhere in the Water Gap. That being said, the Musconetcong Gorge is pretty cool, you'll definately be the only one there. Easy 20 minute hike to several small outcroppings a little ways off 78w. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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