Trad Mentor?


Original Post
Matt Janse · · Rancho Cucamonga · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 30

Hey all. I am an avid sport climber and boulderer. I lead 5.10 and am currently breaking into 11s on outdoor sport routes. I have been wanting to learn trad but haven't found the right partner that will show me safe and sound gear placement and anchoring technique. I am a quick learner. I work for a school district so I am on that type of schedule. I pride myself on being a safe and attentive belayer as well. I am a stoked climber who just wants to learn the right way! Thanks for reading this post. -Matthew 

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 115

You are asking about gear placement and anchor building, but you don't mention the big in-between step, i.e., crack technique itself.  Have you already followed a bunch of cracks of various sizes outside?  The technique is different for finger, hand, fist, off-width, off-sizes...

Also, one of the good ways to learn how to place gear is to know how to remove it.  If you are struggling to remove it, you are often not seeing the way it was placed.

If you haven't done the above, you can get any number of books and videos about crack technique and practice it at many gyms.  It doesn't say what town you live in but it's worth doing gym cracks in that you can do them on a toprope with your current partners.  They tend to be more painful than outdoor cracks but it's good practice.  Also, there are usually nearby holds that you can use at the beginning when your technique isn't good enough to climb just the crack.

Have you joined the Southern California Mountaineers Assn?  My understanding is that they do a lot of basic classes in exactly what you are asking about.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105

 A filled out profile is a good thing.

Where do you live???

If you can start going to Stoney Point....  after work Tuesdays and Thursdays and become a regular you will most likely meet folks who climb every weekend.

 



Matt Janse · · Rancho Cucamonga · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 30

I live in Rancho Cucamonga. Thanks for the responses guys. I have seriously considered joint the SCMA and taking those classes. I believe they only allow entry once per year so I will have to wait until 2018. Cheers 

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 40

You can also take a class with a certified guide; I did this with two friends. I read several books, cleaned routes, and practiced placing gear on the ground before I took the class; definitely helped me get more out of the class since I was competent at placing gear, so we could focus on other aspects of leading in the class.

Definitely do some following to start; get on the partner finder and look for partner request posts here on MP. Buy or borrow some nuts and cams, and practice placing them. 

Join a meetup at a gym; I met lots of my local partners this way.

Ivan LaBianca · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 50

Sent you a DM Matt.

Justin. S · · Big Bear City, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 20

I just moved down to LA and can climb most days after 3:30pm if anyone wants to get out to Stoney Point. I climb 5.10-5.11 sport and 5.8-5.9 trad always down to boulder too. 

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105

Justin....  If you see me at SP say hi. (im not hard to miss, old dude- I only boulder the eazy classics cause I will shatter if I deck from up hi) 

I will gladly introduce to some of my young friends who are into "getting out". 



Justin. S · · Big Bear City, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 20
Guy Keesee wrote:

Justin....  If you see me at SP say hi. (im not hard to miss, old dude- I only boulder the eazy classics cause I will shatter if I deck from up hi) 

I will gladly introduce to some of my young friends who are into "getting out". 

Hey Guy, I'll keep an eye out!


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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