Nose rack


Original Post
Erik Young · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 10

I'm getting a few more pieces to fill out my rack in prep to climb the nose. My partner has a full set of c3s. Should I get another set of c3s or a set of x4 offsets?

Also if you have any other pieces or advice for climbing the nose let us know! 

Lou Cerutti · · Carlsbad, California · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 129

I think the answer to this question depends greatly on the specifics of what is in your rack already. Are you planning to climb the nose with only a full set of C3's and some x4's, Or are you asking for advice regarding what the best rack of small cams for climbing the Nose is?

Erik Young · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 10

The latter. What is the best rack of small cams for climbing the Nose?

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15

DO NOT BUY MORE C3's!  A single set of those is fine, even aid climbing every move.  Also, totems (not the basics, the ones with the funky looking sling) will sit better in almost every placement you find than the x4's will.  Get offset aliens if you want offset cams.  The Yellow/Green and the Red/Yellow are indispensable on that route.

Your rack also depends on how much you will be free climbing, and how many days you will climb the route.

The lightest I've gone was single c3's, 3 offset aliens, and doubles to #1, single 2,3,4 camalot.   Plan to have lots of quickdraws or loose biners for the plethora of fixed gear on that route.  (don't forget a camhook either!)

Erik Young · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 10

JeffL thank you so much for the helpful information! 

What about nuts? We have a full set of bd nuts but no micros or offsets. 

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15

How good are you at cam hooking? For changing corners you will want micro offset nuts.  Like brass or dmm peanuts.  However, there is a bolted variation to the left that skips the need for many of these.  There is often loads of fixed gear.  The last two times I've climbed the nose, I didn't place a single nut.  Not one.  I think the BD nuts are not nearly as good as the 5 dmm offset nuts (especially the gold one!) plus brass or dmm peanuts

The glowering spot pitch scary the first time you climb it.  You will be happy to have offset nuts/cams.  A hand placed beak can also save time instead of a nut placement.

Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
JeffL wrote:

How good are you at cam hooking? For changing corners you will want micro offset nuts.  Like brass or dmm peanuts.  However, there is a bolted variation to the left that skips the need for many of these.  There is often loads of fixed gear.  The last two times I've climbed the nose, I didn't place a single nut.  Not one.  I think the BD nuts are not nearly as good as the 5 dmm offset nuts (especially the gold one!) plus brass or dmm peanuts

The glowering spot pitch scary the first time you climb it.  You will be happy to have offset nuts/cams.  A hand placed beak can also save time instead of a nut placement.

JeeeL thanks for the thoughts. What sizes are you talking about for the glowering spot pitch? Specifically, what size offsets would you recommend? Thanks!

England · · ? · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 125

Have you checked out, "The Nose" on this site???? Mister I need to be loved has all the beta you need.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
JeffL wrote:

The glowering spot pitch scary the first time you climb it. 

What makes it scary?

WadeM · · Golden, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 215
Dan Vinson wrote:

JeeeL thanks for the thoughts. What sizes are you talking about for the glowering spot pitch? Specifically, what size offsets would you recommend? Thanks!

Dan - my gear rack for NIAD was:


60 meter 10mm rope
55 ft 5mm tag line
22 Cams
1 Grey C3
1 Purple C3
1 Black/Blue Alien Offset
1 Blue/Green Alien Offset
1 Green/Yellow Alien Offset
1 BD .3
1 BD .4
2 BD .5
3 BD .75
3 BD 1
3 BD 2
2 BD 3
2 BD 4
3 Largest RP nuts
3 Smallest Offset Alloy nuts
1 Medium & Small Camhooks
16 Keylock Quickdraws
5 Shoulder Slings
8 wiregates
8 lockers
1 set ascenders
1 set pocket aiders
follower used adjustable foot stirrups
Plus personal gear

Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
WadeM wrote:

Dan - my gear rack for NIAD was:


60 meter 10mm rope
55 ft 5mm tag line
22 Cams
1 Grey C3
1 Purple C3
1 Black/Blue Alien Offset
1 Blue/Green Alien Offset
1 Green/Yellow Alien Offset
1 BD .3
1 BD .4
2 BD .5
3 BD .75
3 BD 1
3 BD 2
2 BD 3
2 BD 4
3 Largest RP nuts
3 Smallest Offset Alloy nuts
1 Medium & Small Camhooks
16 Keylock Quickdraws
5 Shoulder Slings
8 wiregates
8 lockers
1 set ascenders
1 set pocket aiders
follower used adjustable foot stirrups
Plus personal gear

Wade, YOU THE MAN! Thank you for sharing.

WadeM · · Golden, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 215

No prob man. I didn't think the glowering spot was scary, only place I really used micro nuts. I've aided quite a bit FYI

Cam hook was great getting into boot flake and changing corners. I took a 30ish foot there when my offset popped while top stepping 

Hit me up if you want more beta

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15

There is a ledge to hit if you fall.  The aid climbing isn't that bad, just don't backclean this pitch and you'll be fine

Nick_Cov · · Truckee, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 30

I didn't place any C3s or totems, however I placed my offsets and back cleaned them more times than I can count. Get a set of offset cams and nuts. Otherwise a triple rack of C4s up to #2, doubles of #3 and 1 #4 was fine. 

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15

Just note that your rack doesn't have to be nearly as heavy as some of the above listed advice.  In my experience, if you bring a tagline up for a day run, you'll probably end up bailing.  If you won't ever fall out of a 5.10 handcrack, a single #2 is fine.  Most crucial piece to have 3 of is the .75 or #1.  I'd still recommend 2 #3's and 2 #4's for your first time.

Lou Cerutti · · Carlsbad, California · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 129

The OP never said anything about NIAD

Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

Definitely NOT NIAD!

Plan is 2.5 days ULTRALIGHT. Just water, food, rack, ULTRALIGHT bags, basically no pad, and lot's of grit.

Planning on bringing the Metolius Freerider Pack with the Sentinal below with 4 gallons of H2O and extra grit.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply