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Guaging climbing ratings on classic trad routes.


Original Post
Cody Vann · · Boulder · Joined May 2014 · Points: 5

Hello, I am going on a 5 week roadtrip from Boulder to San Fransisco and will be hitting up all the classic climbing spots on the way. We will start from San Diego and work our way up California. I was wondering how the climbing ratings compare outside of the state. I am looking at classics like Birdland 5.7+ (Redrocks) and The Grack 5.6 (Yosemite). How do these two climbs compare specifically to the climbs I have already done which are listed below. I am somewhat new to trad but have climbed some of the classics around Boulder including The Bastille 5.7+, The Owl 5.7+, WInd Ridge, North Face Center on COB rock. How do the ratings in Colorado compare to these classic climbs? I felt some of the classic 5.7+ in Boulder and Eldo have felt stiff for the grade. I would love some guidance for these classic multiptch trad routes. ANy other advice or places to go that are sweet would be much appreciated. I am also very into Canyoning and we will be be hitting Zion up. Trip starts 4/10/17. Thanks!!!

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 871

Red Rock is definitely softer than Eldo.  

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Hmm...what is guaging? Is that a new climbing term?

As for route difficulties...different rock types are going to feel harder than what you are used to. If you are not experienced with granite it will feel hard. At those grade levels I think you should be okay. 

Cody Vann · · Boulder · Joined May 2014 · Points: 5

By "guaging" I mean comparing the difficulties of the routes I listed to the ones I have climbed. Climbing rating are all over the place in terms of consistency from my experience. "Kors routes" in BoCo which are rated 5.7 have moves that are harder than 5.10 sport climbs in Boulder (Im looking at you Cozyhang on the Dome in Boulder Canyone). Anyone have experience with all of the routes I have listed or other recs for a kickass roadtrip?

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

I googled guaging but didnt come up with anything?

As for recommending "classics" here is the MP list of the 50 classics: https://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Classics

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:

I googled guaging but didnt come up with anything

Funny!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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