Hand/wrist injury recovery

So 8 weeks ago I broke my Scaphoid in my left hand and have been in a cast since. I get it off in 2 days and am curious if any one has some suggestions on training to get my finger and arm strength back quickly.

Nikolaas de Jong wrote:So 8 weeks ago I broke my Scaphoid in my left hand and have been in a cast since. I get it off in 2 days and am curious if any one has some suggestions on training to get my finger and arm strength back quickly.

I'd say don't focus on quick. I have broken various wrist bones (and injured/tore tendons and ligaments) and learned from one that too enthusiastic of a return led to additional finger injuries. I was feeling better and grip strength had come back faster than my tendons/ligaments were ready for.

Agreed. I had a minor tear in a tendon on the ulnar side from pulling a pocket too hard at a weird angle, and not being warmed up.

Putting high stress on recently repaired parts is a bad idea. I would just do some consistent low grade climbing to urge the body to strengthen up the bones and tendons in your wrist. It probably means the Spring and first part of the Summer are just easy routes and fairly boring climbing, but you'll be far more sorry if you re-injure your wrist and have the rest of the Summer and Fall with zero climbing and another surgery or longer PT.

I broke my Triquetrum, and ended up taking ~4 months off. I would occasionally do some really easy climbing ~5.7, but for the most part didn't climbing. I definitely wouldn't recommend training right away. Take it easy and see how it feels, only start training when you are 100% confident you are healed.

This is late... but may be helpful for anyone who sees this post or comes back from a fracture (or any injury) in the future. 

If someone tells you ‘don’t train’ when returning from an injury, they do not understand that training and rehabilitation are one in the same. Two sides of the same coin. Systematic stressing and progressive resistance is the best way to tell your body ‘I want to get back to climbing like I did before, and you need to build yourself to do so’. 

I hope that your rehabilitation went well and that you’re sending again!