Hand/wrist injury recovery


Original Post
Nikolaas de Jong · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

So 8 weeks ago I broke my Scaphoid in my left hand and have been in a cast since. I get it off in 2 days and am curious if any one has some suggestions on training to get my finger and arm strength back quickly.

MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 63
Nikolaas de Jong wrote:So 8 weeks ago I broke my Scaphoid in my left hand and have been in a cast since. I get it off in 2 days and am curious if any one has some suggestions on training to get my finger and arm strength back quickly.
I'd say don't focus on quick. I have broken various wrist bones (and injured/tore tendons and ligaments) and learned from one that too enthusiastic of a return led to additional finger injuries. I was feeling better and grip strength had come back faster than my tendons/ligaments were ready for.
Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

Agreed. I had a minor tear in a tendon on the ulnar side from pulling a pocket too hard at a weird angle, and not being warmed up.

Putting high stress on recently repaired parts is a bad idea. I would just do some consistent low grade climbing to urge the body to strengthen up the bones and tendons in your wrist. It probably means the Spring and first part of the Summer are just easy routes and fairly boring climbing, but you'll be far more sorry if you re-injure your wrist and have the rest of the Summer and Fall with zero climbing and another surgery or longer PT.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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