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Help me find my projects in the Creek - featuring Gimpy McStumpface


Original Post
La Momoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60

Hey Dude(tte)s!

Short story: I have one hand and my stump can only fit into cracks larger than a baggy .75 - I have to aid thru the start of Cave Route, for example. As such, I've pretty much written off ever leading any route that calls for smaller gear.

BUT THEN this weekend I got on Scarface for the first time, and the small gear at the start is surrounding by flared pods that I can fit into! Psyched! I'll be working up to redpointing that for a bit, but in the meantime are there any other 5.11 and up climbs that may call for small gear but you think would be climbable for me?

If it's in a corner, it needs to be the same orientation as cave route/chocolate corner, or a splitter - the orientation of climbs like Top Sirloin, Bunny Slope is horrendous for me even though reds and golds are perfect stumps.

TIA!

nkane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 90

Pente?

The boulder problem start might be tough, but the thin hands part has a lot of hand-size pods. But maybe the top would be hard cause it's a left-facing corner... but maybe!

La Momoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60
nkane wrote:Pente? The boulder problem start might be tough, but the thin hands part has a lot of hand-size pods. But maybe the top would be hard cause it's a left-facing corner... but maybe!
Cool! Pente has been on my to-do, let me stalk some photos of the start :) With the 'wrong' facing corner, I suppose I could always just get stronger and learn how to place cams with my teeth.
caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,470

Our Piece of the Real Estate might work. the Excuse Station is an obvious choice. Top Sirloin probably faces the wrong way. Sudden Impact I think is a corner with the orientation you're looking for?

Have you done Coyne?

There's a fun one on the far left of supercrack called Rad Bad Duality

La Momoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60
caughtinside wrote:Our Piece of the Real Estate might work. the Excuse Station is an obvious choice. Top Sirloin probably faces the wrong way. Sudden Impact I think is a corner with the orientation you're looking for? Have you done Coyne? There's a fun one on the far left of supercrack called Rad Bad Duality
I've done Coyne but the start was pretty small for stumpy, but it's worth another shot as that was way back on trip #1. I've also loved TIORE, but same issue as cave route - aids at the bottom. Which, let's be real - I'm totally fine pulling on gear for ten feet if it opens up 70 feet of stellar climbing! Have not looked right of super crack since that fateful day after I drank two bottles of wine and punted of SC in a weepy heap.

Someone in my party did sudden impact this weekend, and it faces the right way but the roof tends to throw me. I did not hop on it.
La Momoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60

Sweet, thanks see eye, Excuse Station added to the list!!

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,470

Sure. Way Rambo would probably be a good objective too. quite popular though

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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