Bouldering Trip to New Mexico


Original Post
Laronicus Lehmanold · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 295

I want to plan a bouldering trip to New Mexico (most likely the Albuquerque area, based on what I have found). When is the best time to go? Where can I sleep for free (i.e. camp)?

My dog King Ferdinand will be tagging along. I will have at least two taco pads, and maybe a mondo.

I am leaning to the weekend of 04/21/17, 04/28/17, or 05/12/17. I will be driving from Utah. Any comments or suggestions on how to make this bouldering trip a success would be much appreciated!

Also, if anyone in the area wants to show me around, Little Cottonwood V5-V6 is my limit right now. Cheers.

Nathan Self · · Louisiana · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 90

Get this, if you don't have it already...:
http://www.newmexicobouldering.com/index.php/buy/

JP Whitehead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

It will probably be pretty warm down there, though its near impossible to predict springtime conditions in the Southwest (as I'm sure you know). If it is warm, I'd recommend checking out either Roy, or Nosos / Posos. All are located in the typically cooler Northern part of the state, home to incredible bouldering and plenty of shade. Nosos / Posos are actually alpine areas, making them very good when other places are a bit too hot to climb. All of these areas are well documented in the New Mexico Bouldering guide.

Camping for Roy is free either at the trailhead or at Mills Rim. Plenty of stuff to climb in V6 and under, but check out Funbags (V6), Puddle Jumper (V6), Beautiful Pig (V6), Buttercup (V5), and Moss Neisley (V5).

Laronicus Lehmanold · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 295
Nathan Self wrote:Get this, if you don't have it already...: newmexicobouldering.com/ind...
Thank you! I get paid Friday...(:
Laronicus Lehmanold · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 295
JP Whitehead wrote:It will probably be pretty warm down there, though its near impossible to predict springtime conditions....
I am from Salt Lake City Utah, and have never been to New Mexico, so thank you for your pro-tips!
Owen Summerscales · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,098

Thanks Nathan for the shout out! I do recommend buying the book also, but I would say that ;) Late April/early May in Roy will be borderline hot (although as JP says, springtime in NM is fickle and impossible to predict. I wouldn't recommend Roy if the highs are in the 80s). You'll be able to climb, you just have to chase shade and watch out for rattlers. Much better options are the Ortegas- Nosos and Posos being the two easiest places to access. Posos is at 9000' and will probably have highs in the 60s at that time, i.e. perfect. The camping at Posos is pretty awesome too. I think you will really dig those areas.

Albuquerque area will definitely be warm by then, though the limestone bouldering is quite a bit cooler than the sandia foothills stuff. And also, it's not really worth the trip—just good quality local bouldering.

JP Whitehead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Owen! I need to thank you cyber-personally for the effort you've put into the book and these areas. For being such a "new" area, in Roy I found well maintained climbers trails, cairns, and boulders. The level of work put into that place is evident. Also, the GPS coordinates in the book are accurate, and beyond useful in a service-less area like Roy.

Keep it up! Hopefully we can link up sometime. I'll likely be in Roy Thursday-Friday if you happen to be around!

William Penner · · The 505 · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 455

I echo Owen's sentiments with regards to Roy--rattlesnakes will be an issue that late in the spring. I would say try dropping for one day on either end of the trip to see the stone. The best/shadiest/coolest spots will be the East Fork, Moss Grande, Squid Jerky, Scorched Hell, and Scorched Earth. The megaroof in upper Mesteno can stay cool as well before the sun hits the canyon later in the day.

Nosos/Posos and the Ortegas are the best option. Choose Nosos on cool days and Posos on warm ones. Posos would be dead simple for a solo trip where you need to carry multiple pads around. Camping is easy and free at all of these areas. Also consider visiting Ortega West if you have a high-clearance vehicle. It tends to be more spread out with really nice individual problems and has temps midway between Nosos and Posos.

William

Owen Summerscales · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,098

Thanks a lot JP! Appreciated, the work on the book was a massive undertaking and I'm glad that others are benefiting from it.

Regarding the infrastructure work, we all owe a big debt of gratitude primarily to William (above) and Tom Ellis, and their group of friends, who put in years of hard work making sure sustainable social trails and landings existed in virtually all of the areas they developed. Myself and the friends I brought out subsequently pitched in a bit to this overall effort too more recently.

It's good to see the effect traffic has had on improving these trails, which used to get overgrown every single season, sometimes to the extent that you couldn't even tell there was a trail.

Would be great to link up, always psyched to meet new climbers out there. This week's not going to work for me, but I do intend to get out in a couple weeks time. If you see a teardrop trailer at the campground, just swing by and say hi.

Williams recommendations above are also solid. I would add that the Mills roadside area is also a fairly convenient shady spot that is worthy.

Scaligiuri Caligiuri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 10
Owen Summerscales wrote: Thanks Nathan for the shout out! I do recommend buying the book also, but I would say that ;) Late April/early May in Roy will be borderline hot (although as JP says, springtime in NM is fickle and impossible to predict. I wouldn't recommend Roy if the highs are in the 80s). You'll be able to climb, you just have to chase shade and watch out for rattlers. Much better options are the Ortegas- Nosos and Posos being the two easiest places to access. Posos is at 9000' and will probably have highs in the 60s at that time, i.e. perfect. The camping at Posos is pretty awesome too. I think you will really dig those areas. Albuquerque area will definitely be warm by then, though the limestone bouldering is quite a bit cooler than the sandia foothills stuff. And also, it's not really worth the trip—just good quality local bouldering.

Can you camp at the parking for Posos? Or is it in a different spot? I have the. Ok but it doesn't say much about camping for that area. We will be in Roy for the winter then heading here once it gets too hot. We are towing a trailer. And where are good spots to fill up water? 

Owen Summerscales · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,098
Scaligiuri Caligiuri wrote:

Can you camp at the parking for Posos? Or is it in a different spot? I have the. Ok but it doesn't say much about camping for that area. We will be in Roy for the winter then heading here once it gets too hot. We are towing a trailer. And where are good spots to fill up water? 

The parking area for Posos is an excellent camp site. If you go slightly past the main parking and take a right 20 yds down, there is a more secluded flat spot. The road up there is a bit rocky and will require a little clearance and maneuverability on the trailer. If you dont have that, you could park the trailer in the meadow immediately before you reach the outcrop, 1 min drive/5 min walk away.

For water, that's a little more tricky. I would try the gas station in Ojo Caliente.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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