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anthony salomon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

I am looking at trying something with my trad setup for extending placements. My thought is to have several alpine draws and then a few 30cm(short) slings with one wire gate; basically a short half draw. That way I wouldn't be bringing up an extra carabiner and I could use it on shorter extensions. Anybody else do this or any reasons this is stupid?

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

How would you carry them?

If you really want to save the weight- carry some alpine draws and carry some 60cm runners over your shoulder with a single carabiner. I used to do this until I realized that i was always scrounging for carabiners since I use alot of passive pro and alot of the pitches we climb wander a ton, and 6-7 WC heliums really dont weigh that much.

The thing about weight is you do have to be mindful about bringing too much (i.e. a pack full of crap), but paring it down to too little often isnt worth it (not having enough carabiners)- especially on lowland rock routes that are not at your physical limit (which is most of the time).

If weight really matters on a route at your limit, like as not, you are carrying the exact rack you need because you're redpointing, in the order you need it, and nothing else.

Generally, i err on the side of bringing more runners than i think i'll need in the form of tripled draws and less pro (a single rack plus a couple of extra cams in the sizes i'm bad at or i think i'll need is my default rack).

Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90

I tried something similar, to use with my large cams, but ultimately didn't like the way they racked. The slings are too long to just rack as is and not get in the way, but can't be shortened easily (and also deploy easily).

They are now racked as draws, doubled, but I rarely actually carry them. I'd need to be at a really good stance to want to fiddle with extending them.

Just carry more alpine draws. It's more versatile, and it's very rare you'd need something longer than a tripled sling, but shorter than it extended.

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 105

I use CAMP Nano biners on the gear/harness end of my alpine draws, saves some weight (about 4-5 normal wiregates worth for 12 draws).

I guess it depends on where you climb. At the Gunks or Tahquitz I only bring alpine draws since I want the option to extend every piece, in case of a roof, ledge, or gear that is off route.

Would you leave the one biner clipped to your harness? So you have to unclip, then grab the sling to clip to gear, seems tricky with one hand.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 308

30cm slings with one biner sounds a little limited in function to me. I'd consider using something like that for extending a cam on a relatively straight line of travel when I wanted to mitigate rope movement walking it out of place. Or maybe for a redirect at an anchor. But that's about it.

I see what you're saying. But for extending a shoulder-length alpine draw, it seems to me you'd be better off just buying a few double length slings instead. That should give you more versatility.

I like to have a couple 90cm and 120cm alpine draws, which can be used unextended, extended, or to sling trees and chockstones. I experimented with 60cm slings and single biner over the shoulder, but found them to be too much trouble.

All that said, if you think it's got merit, try it out and see how it works for you. You might like it.

Xan Calonne · · Joshua Tree, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 35

I used the thirty cm sling w/ a single biner method for a while. I liked that they were extremely light, and there wasn't a redundant carabiner, but as other have said they are not versatile. A total one trick pony. Alpine draws are my preferred method now; they are useful in so many ways that a single biner with a short sling is not. I do still like the leftover 30 cm slings for water bottles though. ;)

kevin neville · · Somerville, MA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

I generally carry a 30 cm sling or two, with two biners. Useful for clipping fixed pins or the odd bolt, or a passive piece that I want kept short, or a cam that I want a little extension on (generating a free biner which gets transferred to a shoulder sling). Basically, I found myself leaving a few of my alpine draws tripled often enough that I started carrying dedicated short slings instead.

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483

Why not just use a 25cm quickdraw that is only stitched down near the gear side and have a piece less likely to snag on stuff? I just see doubled up 30cm as putting one biner in the middle of all my gear.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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