Beginner Adirondack Multipitch sport climbs?


Original Post
CrimpDaddy-WesP · · Houghton, NY · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 230

Looking to hit the Dacks in a few weeks perhaps and would like to try a nice and easy sport multipitch for the first time. I don't have trad gear.

Any suggestions?
Thanks

Chris Reyes · · Montclair, NJ · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 40

I believe you're out of luck. From what I can remember (guidebook's not in front of me) the only bolted climbs tend to be single pitch harder stuff (11 and up). I don't think there's any multipitch sport.

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411

Off the top of my head I can't think of any multipitch sport in the ADKs. Maybe there's a few new lines at Silver Lake (Northern ADKs). Perhaps some slab at Roger's Rock [as I recall there's a few bolted 5.8 and harder lines there - but falls would scrape you up good! ;-) ]?

There is some easier sport at Shelving Rock, and moderates at Spanky's. If you're willing to fall on bolts there's plenty of 5.10 and up scattered throughout the park, but it's nearly all single pitch. The guidebook might have a list in the index to help filter the best sport destinations.

To maximize your climbing time in the ADKs, you'd want a rack.

Dharma Bum · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 585

+1 for Rogers Rock. Runout slab climbing and you will need a canoe or kayak for the approach.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,740
Dharma Bum wrote:+1 for Rogers Rock. Runout slab climbing and you will need a canoe or kayak for the approach.
Yea, multipitch bolted 5.6 there, but it is most definitely NOT "sport climbing". OP - are you cool with 40-60 ft fall potential? Not air time, but rather skin-shredding, cheese grater slides/tumbles.

PS - welcome to the Adirondacks!
Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60

Your best bet is Rumney, NH.

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411
Logan Schiff wrote:Your best bet is Rumney, NH.
Isn't most of that single pitch as well?
Chris Reyes · · Montclair, NJ · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 40
Kevin Heckeler wrote: Isn't most of that single pitch as well?
Most of it, but there are a few multipitch climbs, relatively newer things. I believe there's some moderate (although scary if that's your limit) climbs on Main Cliff Right.
Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60

Not to mention that 300 foot 5.3 slab, which while incredibly easy, would be a good first sport multi-pitch experience.

Here is an example of a two pitch 5.7: mountainproject.com/v/crowd....

Obviously not a sport multi-pitch mecca like El Potrero, but it sure beats the Adirondacks options for entry-level sport climbing!

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411
Logan Schiff wrote:Not to mention that 300 foot 5.3 slab, which while incredibly easy, would be a good first sport multi-pitch experience. Here is an example of a two pitch 5.7: mountainproject.com/v/crowd.... Obviously not a sport multi-pitch mecca like El Potrero, but it sure beats the Adirondacks options for entry-level sport climbing!
Ah yes, forgot about clip-a-de-doo-dah and the route to its right. Fun and quality slab by any measure.

Carry on. :-D
CrimpDaddy-WesP · · Houghton, NY · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 230

Ok, thanks guys. I actually live in NH but haven't been able to climb much because I've been away for so long. Looking to hit some of those rumney and whitehorse climbs in the spring!

june m · · elmore ,vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 43

Begginner adk multi pitch sport climb is an oxymoron

Ben Zito · · Middletown, NJ · Joined May 2016 · Points: 15

On roger's rock, the Matrix is a 5.8, 4 pitch sport climb. It's really fun but you can only access by canoe/boat. There is a canoe rental spot down the street that opens at 9am, although I'm not positive if they're open year round. It's beginner in grade but the bolts are really far apart so it could be spooky especially since it's slab. It's really fun though. I have scoured the guidebooks for sport climbs in the ADK and it just comes down to the fact that if you really want to explore the area you have to use gear.

Gabe Cisneros · · Baltimore, md · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10
Ben Zito wrote:

On roger's rock, the Matrix is a 5.8, 4 pitch sport climb. It's really fun but you can only access by canoe/boat. There is a canoe rental spot down the street that opens at 9am, although I'm not positive if they're open year round. It's beginner in grade but the bolts are really far apart so it could be spooky especially since it's slab. It's really fun though. I have scoured the guidebooks for sport climbs in the ADK and it just comes down to the fact that if you really want to explore the area you have to use gear.

It's a 600ft cheese grater. I mean, if you're feeling  "sporty"....sure, it's sport.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Matrix is not a sport climb or a beginner climb. It averages 4 bolts per 50m pitch. P1 takes a #1 red camalot, a micro nut and a micro cam to make it a bit more reasonable. PG13 with the gear r/x without... P2  is 4 bolts in 50m with the crux directly off the belay with no gear, P3 casual sport 4 bolts in 40m. P4. a few bolts and a few gear placements...

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

P2  is 4 bolts in 50m with the crux directly off the belay with no gear

Good points Nick.  I remember our leader backing off P2's start.  Didn't look any better to me or the other climber in our group, so we rapped and did something else.  The leader eventually went back and slayed that demon (their words), once they had more experience and ability on slab.  I haven't been on the climb in return visits, maybe in a month or two.  I'll check back to give my full chicken-hearted pucker factor review.

Luc-514 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 8,953

Dacks sport climbing reminds me of the best Sport climb in Joshua tree.

Phil Hofmeyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Matrix is not a sport climb or a beginner climb. It averages 4 bolts per 50m pitch. P1 takes a #1 red camalot, a micro nut and a micro cam to make it a bit more reasonable. PG13 with the gear r/x without... P2  is 4 bolts in 50m with the crux directly off the belay with no gear, P3 casual sport 4 bolts in 40m. P4. a few bolts and a few gear placements...

Might be a bit too late for the OP, but I think you can link Screaming Meanie P1/2 with Matrix P3/4 and it stays 5.7ish. Still a far cry from a "sport" climb, but reduces the grade and increases the protection slightly. 

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,411
Phil Hofmeyer wrote:

Might be a bit too late for the OP, but I think you can link Screaming Meanie P1/2 with Matrix P3/4 and it stays 5.7ish. Still a far cry from a "sport" climb, but reduces the grade and increases the protection slightly. 

Screaming Matrix?

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Screaming matrix is still not a beginner climb. P1 and 2 of screaming Meanie are full on trad slab with big runouts. moderate grade  but serious climbing for the grade. the traverse to P3 of matrix gets my attention every time.  The only climb on Rogers that I would consider a beginner climb is the trad climb  Little Finger. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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