New River Gorge Reccomendations 4/15 - 4-22


Original Post
beach · · Portland, ME · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 44

Hi, I'm looking for recommendations for crags/routes in the new. I'll be down there mid april and imagine that there will be lots of people... i generally don't like crowds and am more than willing to hike if it means i don't have to wait in line. That being said i understand its a popular time and is what it is...

Looking for climbs up to 5.9/5.10 trad and sport that are off the beaten path. I do a lot of random backwoods climbing in maine/new hampshire and don't mind hiking, wandering and bushwacking. If it will get me away from crowds i'm willing to work to get there.

Thanks in advance :)

Chris Whisenhunt · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 955

It's the new, you won't get away from crowds. Sounds like you'd have the most fun at the meadow. Most all crags here have high quality routes so it's hard to get away from people. I recommend using the search functionality on this site to find routes in your grade range.

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Beauty Mountain has a good mix of trad and sport at the grade you're looking at. There can be crowds, but they tend to be less than other areas. Other good areas would be The Other Place, Lower Meadow, and some areas along Endless wall.

If you're climbing during the week, crowds will be reasonable or nonexistent. Weekends can be rough depending on forecast.

Camp at Ray's.

beach · · Portland, ME · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 44

Thanks for the replies, I used the search function first, but I also figured I would reach out and see if there was anything people would recommend

Tyler Osborne · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5

I'd recommend the Red. Much better climbing and much more variety.

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 100
WTylerOsborne wrote:I'd recommend the Red. Much better climbing and much more variety.
I prefer the New but at those grades, this is probably accurate. There are some great 10s in the New but the Red is friendlier in your range
beach · · Portland, ME · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 44

thank you for the advice, not to be rude but I am definitely going to go to the new. I've been to the red a few times and would like to check out the new.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

The trad routes at Fern Buttress are not off the beaten path, but they are often not busy in my experience (with the exception of Star Trek Wall). Often the case for Endless as well, sport routes get traffic and trad routes are often free and clear. There are some more remote destinations in the gorge, but they are a little light on that grade range. Pick up a copy of the guidebook, Mike has good beta on less traveled crags in there.

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790
Brian Payst wrote:The trad routes at Fern Buttress are not off the beaten path, but they are often not busy in my experience (with the exception of Star Trek Wall). Often the case for Endless as well, sport routes get traffic and trad routes are often free and clear. There are some more remote destinations in the gorge, but they are a little light on that grade range. Pick up a copy of the guidebook, Mike has good beta on less traveled crags in there.
I second Fern, especially orchard wall and ritz cracker vicinity. Great 10- cracks there, and a smattering of 5.10 sport here and there. There is also the very classic, and soft, 11- named Wild Seed (sport) and some uber classic 5.9s in the area - emerald dance, two bag face, etc.

Whipporwill also has a great selection of moderate sport and gear - so long as the water level remains low enough for access.
beach · · Portland, ME · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 44

I'll definitely check out fern. Thanks again, I purchased the guidebooks and have been perusing them. Thanks again for the tips.

Timothy Nooney · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 45

Don't follow the directions in the guidebooks for the Other Place. Some roads got closed around there.

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Some recommendations by area:

Beauty: burning calves, supercrack,rod Serling crack

Fern: 2 bag face, emerald dance, crescenta, springboard, anal clenching adventures, wild seed

Endless proper: party in my mind, party til you're blind, autumn fire, Remission, technarete, fantasy, celebate mallard, undeserved, and many more

Lower Meadow: chimpanzibubbas, by the way I did your mom, begoon artz corner

Kaymoore: lots of decent 5.10 sport, and the killer Fairtracer. One of the best NRG style crack systems.

Summersville: Perot wall, long wall, and orange Oswald have a great selection of 5.10 sport as well. Expect crowds on weekends.

Bridge and Junkyard are chock full of classic gear lines. And toproping crowds. Dear god, the crowds.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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