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Women's trad climbing/guiding harness

Original Post
Kalli Schumacher · · Chanhasssen, MN · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

So I'm searching for a women's harness (I'm fairly small, so I'm not confident a men's small would be tight enough on me). I currently have the Petzl Luna and my main issue is that it's really uncomfortable when hanging, and the gear loops are tiny (the back loops are largely inaccessible/so small they're pointless). Learned to rack on my harness so also looking for something that's not going to be terribly uncomfortable with a lot of weight hanging off it. The Luna has worked because up until now I was only doing indoor/single pitch climbing. With more multipitch and guiding work, I need a new one. It's also just kinda old, so time to retire it anyways.

Luna Luna · · New Haven, CT · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 55

I like the mammut women's togir 3 slide. I think they make an xs. The fit is a little different than the Luna but after a week or so of use, especially if you have it on for long days/ routes it becomes very comfortable. The buckle st the back is a nice added touch too, no more fighting with leg loops stretch to pee.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 308

My wife really likes her Misty Mountain Cadillac.

Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,970

Second a Misty Mountain. I have the Petzl Selena and it is definitely not as comfortable as my old MM. I have also used the Togira (which was mentioned). It is super comfy although I do not think the gear loops are as big as the MM, but probably bigger than the Petzl.

The Mammut and the MM run smaller than the Petzl, fyi. I had to get a medium in Petzl but I could easily wear a small in the others.

jmmlol · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

I have a Togir Slide (men's though) and found it quite comfortable when projecting sport (and belaying). Can't attest to multi-pitch hanging though.

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 808

My wife has the dead bird AR-385a Harness and I have the men's version AR-395a Harness. I've owned and tried multiple harnesses in the past and I'll never go back. Dead Bird is pricey but these harnesses are worth it. I sport climb, trad climb and done many many multipitch routes with this harness. They're pretty comfy and pack down really well

daisy s · · New York, NY · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 25

I have the FL-355 and it's awesome. 4 large molded gear loops, even though it's nominally the fast and light model. I'm also a small woman, and I found that it's much better fitting and more comfortable than any padded harness I've ever owned. Totally worth the investment, IMO.

I had the Togir slide before this one, and just didn't think that the gear loops were big enough or in the right place, especially on the XS model.

Kalli Schumacher · · Chanhasssen, MN · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone! Sorry for reposting this as these are the much the same recommendations as other posts, but there was a lot of contradicting reviews out there, especially on the Arc'teryx and Misty Mountians.

May have to go try on a few, issues of not having a gear shop within a hour drive...

Luna Luna · · New Haven, CT · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 55

I used to have a bd lotus, it has pros and cons. Didn't love racking on it, super comfortable, biggest downside was an instability in the waist closure. I had been using it for about 2 years on all types of terrain and it started to slide and loosen in use especially when hanging or during sport falls... it's been retired

Rika J. · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 5

I have a MM Silhouette and I love it. It's super comfortable, even when racking a full double rack. I used to have a Luna too, and I love the upgrade.

KathyS · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 125

I'm on my 2nd Misty Mountain Cadillac, and use that for rock climbing (99% trad). I also rack on my harness, and like the 6 gear loops for organization. For ice, I recently bought a DMM Puma 2. Very comfy and lighter than the Caddy, though I'm not sure I like the gear loops as much. I like the ice clipper slot placements though.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

Edelrid Solaris. Only harness on the market with dual swamis for adjusting fit and the foam is preformed so it won't collapse at a hanging belay.

I wear the men's version and its by far the most comfortable harness on the market and I've worn them all at one time or another.

Kalli Schumacher · · Chanhasssen, MN · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Tried on the Misty Mountain Cadillac a few days ago.  Definitely going to go with it! 

Steve_Sil. · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 105

If your size happens to be a small in the Misty Mountain Cadillac there is one on sale at GearX for $70 which is to be a pretty good deal.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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