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ISO: Crack

Original Post
MJD · · Jackson, WY · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 25

I'm looking to beef-up my crack climbing game. What are some of the best cracks (all sizes and rock types) in MN/WI to practice and why?!

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Yes

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

I just disagree that Cheta is a crack climb.

North Shore PHead:
Top 1/2 of Phantom crack
Christmas tree crack
Laceration Jam
Bluebells

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166
jon jugenheimer wrote:I just disagree that Cheta is a crack climb.
That's fair.
BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

Peavey Park

MJD · · Jackson, WY · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 25

Great, you guys are awesome!

Danny Radomski · · St. Louis · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 5

Resurrecting this thread to ask about some more Midwest cracks. I'm located in St. Louis, so DL, RRG, and HCR/Sam's are all close enough for good weekend trips. Jackson is real close, but the selection is smaller. I know there's a little bit at Elephant Rocks and the surrounding granite. 

I'm still pretty new to trad and cracks, but I'm looking for anything: trad, sport, boulders in hands, fingers, fists, wide. I'd prefer to stick to higher quality, clean routes, but if 1 star routes are what I've got, they're what I've got.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

If you’re looking to practice crack climbing technique go to the Red.  HCR/Sam’s probably as well although I’ve never been.
As far as the Red:
Roadside Attraction, Father and Son (GREAT first lead - 5.7) Cheaper Than a Movie (long and stiff - make sure your layback fitness is up to snuff - 5.8), Autumn - 5.9, Crack Attack 5.9+, Rock Wars 10a...that should get you started.  There’s 5 star crack routes from 5.6 to 5.13 and the pro is usually great.

Connor Johnstone · · Lexington, KY · Joined May 2017 · Points: 70
Ted Pinson wrote: There’s 5 star crack routes from 5.6 to 5.13 and the pro is usually great.

Why stop at 5.13? RRG even has Silently Does the Sun Shine, a 5 star 5.14 trad crack.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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