The Nose Rack


Original Post
RoHo · · Pirna, Saxony, Germany · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Dear Big Wall Specialists,

In the awesome Big Wall Photo Thread posted ChrissCW this cool pic of their NIAD rack:



Can anybody explain to me as a noob why or in which war are 5 Petzl Tiblocs are usefull for The Nose?
We will try the route soon and I'am very thankfull for some beta.
Greetings, Robert

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 175

i dont know if this is what was done but ... i know some people use tiblocs when simul climbing and leave the tibloc on random pieces so that if the second falls, it doesnt pull the leader, they just top rope fall onto said piece.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

I suspect they are used when the climbers are simul climbing. If the second should fall, a Tribloc will stop his fall before he pulls the leader off the rock.

In actuality, the guys who are really pushing the time record, sub 4 hours, never use this technique. The Triblocs are pretty much going to shred the rope, and the Nose can easily be done in less than 10 hours without simul climbing. Doing the Nose in a day is really not that difficult and simul climbing is unnecessary.

RoHo · · Pirna, Saxony, Germany · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks for your answer. This could be the solution. But some time ago, i saw a vid of some crazy guys (I think they were from czech rep.?) try a backuped fall on a Petzl Croll to see what will happens to the rope. It was crazy! And preatty scary.

Kedron Silsbee · · Princeton, NJ · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Has a rope ever actually completely failed because someone fell while simulling with a Tibloc in the system? Short of complete failure, it seems like a shredded rope would be almost always preferable to the leader being pulled off unexpectedly while simuling, no?

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

I don't believe Tribloc has every completely cut a rope, I don't see how it could, but, given the original post, there is no need for simul climbing and therefore Triblocs on a NAID ascent.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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