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bolting in Cuba-questions


Original Post
carter jensen · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

I'm headed to Cuba tomorrow and wanted to contribute some hardware to the climbing scene down there. I know very little about bolting a sport climb. Sooo:

a) 10mm or 12mm bolts-what is being used down there?
b) Is stainless steel acceptable?

If anyone has info please lemme know asap as I have to pull the trigger on a pro-deal in the next hour or two.

Thanks!

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35
carter jensen wrote:I'm headed to Cuba tomorrow and wanted to contribute some hardware to the climbing scene down there. I know very little about bolting a sport climb. Sooo: a) 10mm or 12mm bolts-what is being used down there? b) Is stainless steel acceptable? If anyone has info please lemme know asap as I have to pull the trigger on a pro-deal in the next hour or two. Thanks!
Titanium glue ins only bud. Only bolt with Titanium there period.
carter jensen · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

Yup- a little more internet research and I found that out, straight from Armando Menocal,one of the key developers. Thanks.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,122
carter jensen wrote:I'm headed to Cuba tomorrow and wanted to contribute some hardware to the climbing scene down there. I know very little about bolting a sport climb. Sooo: a) 10mm or 12mm bolts-what is being used down there? b) Is stainless steel acceptable? If anyone has info please lemme know asap as I have to pull the trigger on a pro-deal in the next hour or two. Thanks!
Also just so you're aware, the only titanium bolts currently on the marked are 14mm. Titan Climbing
Dom · · New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,110
carter jensen wrote:Yup- a little more internet research and I found that out, straight from Armando Menocal,one of the key developers. Thanks.
Hey, do you have a contact information for this person?
I'm wondering what gear to bring. I have access to a bunch of fixed draws..
carter jensen · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

There is a bunch of good info on cubaclimbing.com The two emails I found were:

anibal@cubaclimbing.com
armando@cubaclimbing.com

Dharma Bum · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 585

I thought the only way to bolt in Cuba was on a raft to Miami?

Eric Berghorn · · Calistoga,CA · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 678

Well Carter is probably in Vinales by now but here are some photos from Feb. 2017 to encourage others to visit:

Guajiro Ecologico. The closest area to Vinales town.

Cueva Larga. Enough routes to keep you busy for days. 20 minute walk from Vinales.

La Costanera - "The Cathedral". The guidebook author suggests this is by far the most impressive wall in all of Cuba (photo does not do it justice)
As the guidebook author mentions La Costanera has some bolts showing signs of corrosion probably due to proximity of the cliff to the sea. This formation is about 11 kilometers from Vinales and the shore is visible from the upper pitches (about an hour or so drive further away) Many of the routes (some up to 5 pitches) were originally bolted around 1999-2000 by Craig Luebben and others. Though some re-bolting has been done here, Titanium Glue-in bolts and the time and expertise to place them could greatly benefit this fantastic area !

Typical quaint scene in Vinales town walking to the crags.

Havana Old Town 2/17/17
Dom · · New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,110

Thanks for the pictures.

I received the guidebook yesterday and am heading there in 2 weeks.
Guidebook is from 2009. I'm guessing there are way more routes in Vinales than there were when the guidebook was published. Is there a database online that keeps track of the new routes?

Stoked!!

Eric Berghorn · · Calistoga,CA · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 678

Bump for Cuba Climbing... I've searched and am not aware of any database for updated routes. There is so much undeveloped rock throughout the region that new routes are certainly out there. The locals are very helpful pointing out route locations, variations, grades, etc. when at the crags...

The photo below is not mine. It's from the cover of the 2009 guidebook. "Mucho Pumpito" 6B (5.10 d) is described as a "must do" classic route, which takes a plumb line up a steep arete right in the center of La Costenera (mentioned above.) It did not disappoint ! Do yourself a favor and taxi out early to this area for the day. Receives almost all day shade and many of the routes are steep enough to stay dry in bad weather.

Mucho Pumpito, 6B La Costanera (Credit: Andrew Burr)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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