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Areas with Close Bolts


Original Post
Max T · · Mooresville, NC · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 65

I just wrapped up a trip to Red Rock and was stunned by how close the bolts are (relative to some of the crags I've been to in NC). It felt weird at first, but I also felt much better about falls on the climbs I was on. I'm curious if there are other areas known for a bolt spacing similar to Red Rock, NV.

Eric Carlos · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 40

Not all of Red Rock has close bolt spacing. But let me add, with desert sandstone, it is not as bomber as other types of rock, so you might not want 15ft spacing like you could on bullet granite.

Billy Danger · · Asheville, NC · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 232

Try Hidden Valley. The bolts are pretty close there as well.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

Muir Valley in Red River Gorge, KY.

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 585
Max T wrote:I just wrapped up a trip to Red Rock and was stunned by how close the bolts are (relative to some of the crags I've been to in NC).
Having been to NC (only Stone Mountain) I think you should rather be surprised about how far apart your bolts are at home, not the other way around ;)

Red Rocks is somewhat closely bolted, but probably matches Rumney in NH. An old joke with Rumney partners out west is:

"How's that one bolted?"
"It's Rumney run-out."
"So, normal then?"

More than anything I think you'll find that style of climb/area has a lot to do with it, and not in the style/ethics sense. Areas with frequent hard moves, but not a strong endurance component will get close bolts (Rumney), whereas straight endurofests without cruxes may have more spaced bolts (RRG), or you might find both of those things on one route in a given area if it's done right. There's also the issue of Red Rock having lots of shorter routes, so bolts 1,2, 3 and maybe 4 could be geared towards keeping you off the ground/ledge, so they can't be too spacey.
S.Mckinna · · CaƱon City, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,725

Shelf Road CO

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Owens River Gorge.

Wilburn · · Cheyenne, WY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 350

Ten Sleep Canyon has very friendly bolting.

Joel Allen · · La Crosse, WI · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 265

Just got back from Shelf Road. If you go to newer crags there expect the bolts to be 2 to 5 feet apart.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 125

Not all of Red Rocks is like that... Jacks Canyon AZ basically and outdoor gym! and Isolation Canyon AZ is a very well protected sport crag.

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35
Joel Allen wrote:Just got back from Shelf Road. If you go to newer crags there expect the bolts to be 2 to 5 feet apart.
2 feet? Seriously?! Must be an exaggeration!? Thats worse than a gym...
Joel Allen · · La Crosse, WI · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 265
Tylerpratt wrote: 2 feet? Seriously?! Must be an exaggeration!? Thats worse than a gym...
Not even joking!! I'll try to remember the route but there was literally 2 bolts about 2 feet apart.

On many occasions on this trip to shelf road, I was able to clip 2 bolts easily from the same stance.

On one route my buddy Z clipped, clipping the anchors lmao.
Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 585
walmongr wrote:Jacks Canyon AZ basically and outdoor gym!
Yeah, but the route setters have been a little lazy lately. No new holds since the '90s...
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

The Hi-Desert, AKA BMX by Victorville and The Holcomb Valley.....

but sometimes having bolts 2 feet apart is a good thing... esp if its to keep you off the deck.

csproul

Owens River Gorge.

Do you climb there?

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

Horseshoe Canyon has friendly bolt spacing on most routes.

Michael Palmer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 25

I spent a day at a Hong Kong crag and was surprised by the closer bolt spacing compared to PA and WV sport routes.

The climbs I did were between 35 and 40 ft and 5 or 6 bolts.

The area was developed by the Francis Haden. His website looks like a good resource on bolting new routes and his philosophy is listed as "I choose to equip routes such that bolt placements are reasonably spaced and consistent with the rhythm of the climb. I do not equip climbs with long run-outs simply because the level of difficulty is easy."

From the free Ap Lei Chau guidebook pdf:
• 675 glue-in titanium bolts
• 38 tubes of resin
• 123 drill bits
• 51 days bolting
• 112 routes
• 13 Months from start to finish

mountainproject.com/v/the-p…

his site:
francishaden.wordpress.com/

Eric Carlos · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 40

Sanford wall at Foster Falls.....45 ft routes with 3 bolts.

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Guy Keesee wrote:The Hi-Desert, AKA BMX by Victorville and The Holcomb Valley..... but sometimes having bolts 2 feet apart is a good thing... esp if its to keep you off the deck. csproul Owens River Gorge. Do you climb there?
A few times (2-5) times each year, so not a ton. Been there the last two weekends.
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,104
Eric Carlos wrote:Sanford wall at Foster Falls.....45 ft routes with 3 bolts.
I don't think that would be considered closely bolted, that's at least 11 feet between each bolt on average which while not being run-out, certainly wouldn't be considered closely bolted for a sport route.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310
csproul wrote: A few times (2-5) times each year, so not a ton. Been there the last two weekends.
OK so you do know what your talking about.... I find a bunch of the climbs are pretty run, for sport climbs. I mostly try to onsite the 5.10's so I try really hard and will not hang.... I took a 40 footer at the top of "Show US your Tits" while trying to clip the anchor.... big time fun!

But I have never "Z" clipped there, unlike the Holcomb, and that is sort of how I gauge the spacing.
walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 125
Brendan Blanchard wrote: Yeah, but the route setters have been a little lazy lately. No new holds since the '90s...
Drills ran out of battery and bits not able to make any more holds!!!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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