Spring '17 list of dry Yosemite climbs - Post em up!


Original Post
Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

We were talking about dry routes over on a 'Spring Break in Yosemite' thread, but so many people are asking I think it'll be great to have one thread where folks can post up what they've been climbing and how the conditions are.

So far most of the cragging and the smaller walls, like Ranger Rock, Five Open Books, etc. are dry.

For now the big routes on El Cap are all wet the last 1/3 to 1/4, except Zodiac and the few aid routes to the left of it that stay pretty perfect until a couple pitches from the top.

Freeblast is dry except for the Half Dollar.

The Nose is dry to Eagle Ledge.

There are lots of Peregrine Falcon closures, on the Lost Arrow for example, so check those out here:

yosemitebigwall.com/logistics

With the long days, the green grass, and the roaring waterfalls Yosemite is a beautiful as ever. Go For It!

Woot!
Erik Sloan
RockclimbYosemite.com - Yosemitebigwall.com

Andy Novak · · Golden, Co · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 5

Or you could go directly to the NPS website for closures:

https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,040

Serenity/sons was dry this week, as was superslide. Royal arches was Ok except the traverse, and the scary top "3rd class" slab. You have to go outside on the lower pitches, as the "creek" is running. Raps on arches are waterfalls, so walk off.
Was not on Washington Column, but it looked fine.
Glacier point apron was dry, but lots of pebbles raining.
North Dome, from a distance, looked dry on top, but that was a distant visual.
Ribbon falls was wetter/broader than i have seen it in years!
South rim is still snow snow snow, ledges and top.
Parkside was spotty.
The 120 above 140 is closed. Sign says 1/2 mile, but you can drive up to second tunnel?
This was all last week, i see it is 'sposed to snow again.

Erik Sloan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Awesome!

Yes you can drive up the hwy 120, from the 140/120 junction, to Forresta, so you can access the popular climbing areas like Reeds, Five and Dime, Knob Hill. Tshirt weather down there lately!

Tony L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 318

Anyone know about the approach/descent for Watkins? Is there a ton of snow still on top?

http://www.alltravelcams.com/yosemite_national_park/sentinel_dome.php#

Kevin Moss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

Anybody heard anything about Braille Book or the other Cathedral climbs? I'm anticipating snow higher up, but maybe Central Pillar would be ok. Thoughts?

Tony L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 318

1st pitch of Central Pillar can be wet in spots. Given how much snow was down last week, there is probably a big snow cone at the base (minor inconvenience). North side is a better bet. Absolute Free Center would be a good alternative to Central.

SirTobyThe3rd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,740

"Anyone know about the approach/descent for Watkins? Is there a ton of snow still on top?"

I have done the south face of Watkins IAD last March after at least a week of dry weather and the upper part of the climb was wet. Snow from the top all the way to the footbridge or maybe even a little past it. Don't let the cam fool you. Looked super dry on it when we did it, were post holing for a good while.

Buddin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

First pitch of absolutely free is a waterfall. 3rd pitch of nutcracker is pretty wet but manageable. Astroboy (first 3p astroman) is dry enough but lots of water dropping from the upper pitches. Toe Joe and Mecca were climbable lastweek. Poison oak is start to take over down canyon so watch out.

Ethan Judd · · Alta, Wyoming · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

I'm planning on going to Yosemite in about 2 weeks and staying for a month. Do you guys think there will be enough dry climbing? I'm a beginning trad leader and am just looking to gain some experience with trad and crack climbing.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 200
Ethan Judd wrote:I'm planning on going to Yosemite in about 2 weeks and staying for a month. Do you guys think there will be enough dry climbing? I'm a beginning trad leader and am just looking to gain some experience with trad and crack climbing.
Sorry Ethan, impossible to predict.

Could be gorgeous, or snow every other day.

If I wanted to get LOTS of trad experience I would go J-tree as a beginner like many of us did. Far more moderates to do there than the Valley and more stable weather in the Spring. Super easy to get mileage throwing cams and nuts in cracks, which is what you need if you are new to leading on gear.

If it gets hot drive up the East Side to Owens River Gorge and between there and other East Side crags tons to do and beautiful in the Spring.
Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,040
King Tut wrote: Sorry Ethan, impossible to predict. Could be gorgeous, or snow every other day. If I wanted to get LOTS of trad experience I would go J-tree as a beginner. Far more moderates to do there than the Valley and more stable weather in the Spring. If it gets hot drive up the East Side to Owens River Gorge and between there and other East Side crags tons to do and beautiful in the Spring.
This. And how beginner? If you are 5.9 beginner, the valley will work for you. 5.6....hit the east side.
Jon Chittenden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Hey

Does anyone know what the conditions are in the valley right now? I'm mainly looking for bouldering conditions.

Thanks

Kevin Moss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

I think I know the answer, but anybody know how Superslide looks right now?

I'm guessing the whole of the Royal Arches areas is very wet, but can anyone confirm?

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 200

I think I know the answer, but anybody how does Superslide look right now? I'm guess the whole of the Royal Arches areas is very wet, but can anyone confirm? I don't honestly know but thought I would add that the RA area (other than cascades) dries out faster than nearly anything in the Upper Valley. After a few days of sun it is generally climbable year round.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,040
Kevin Moss wrote:I think I know the answer, but anybody how does Superslide look right now? I'm guess the whole of the Royal Arches areas is very wet, but can anyone confirm?
I have been known to call the mountain shop and ask. When they are not super busy, they have been known to be somewhat personable. Spoke w/2 rangers last week, who did not know what Ranger Rock is (manure pile), did not know if there was snow on the east butt, and did not know....much. SO much for engaged.
CraigNAllen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Friday 3/31 - Glacier point apron - The Grack and surrounding climbs were totally dry. Dont know the area well but there are rivers coming down the areas north of the Grack.

Sat 4/1 - Munginella. First pitch was dry. Second pitch was very wet. 3rd looked dry. Party in from of us French Free'd the 2nd. We bailed.

Sat 4/1 - Swan slab gully. First pitch is dry-ish. Alternates are dry. If you can do the first pitch the rest is fine. 2nd is wet but 4th class move are now maybe an east 5th. 3rd is dry.

Kevin Moss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

4/1/17 (no joke) Super Slide was amazing and we were the first party on it.  There were wet sections, notably, the crack just before the end of the second pitch and a few spots at the around each subsequent belay. Totally doable. 

Saw some folks rapping Royal Arches and they said it was quite dry up to about the 6th pitch, which is where they bailed. Also talked to a few desert rats who, for their first valley climb ever, said CPF has snow 2/3rds up the first pitch which made for an exciting step to the crack and immediate placement. I'll be giving that one a week or more to dry out.

Cody Cox KC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

How about Sunny Side Bench Regular Route prospects for first week of may?

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 200
Cody Cox KC wrote:

How about Sunny Side Bench Regular Route prospects for first week of may?

Should be good, but the upper slabs on the walk off may be very wet. More storms at least once a week still on the schedule.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 200
CraigNAllen wrote:

Friday 3/31 - Glacier point apron - The Grack and surrounding climbs were totally dry. Dont know the area well but there are rivers coming down the areas north of the Grack.

Sat 4/1 - Munginella. First pitch was dry. Second pitch was very wet. 3rd looked dry. Party in from of us French Free'd the 2nd. We bailed.

Sat 4/1 - Swan slab gully. First pitch is dry-ish. Alternates are dry. If you can do the first pitch the rest is fine. 2nd is wet but 4th class move are now maybe an east 5th. 3rd is dry.

Be advised that the walk off of the 5 Open Books (to the West) is often a running cascade early in the Spring. This requires rappels instead of downclimbing when they are running.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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