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offset cams/nuts in lumpy ridge

Original Post
Joe Trabucco · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

After a great weekend in lumpy, I'm starting to become sold on the idea of offset cams after dealing with a lot of flaring cracks.

Does anyone have any input on the best offset cams out on the market right now or ones that you find work the best in lumpy?


Keith W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 80

I haven't gotten to use them yet in Lumpy but I like the offset totems. They are well built and similar to aliens so they are familiar.

I have lead almost a whole pitch on a double set of DMM offset nuts (second pitch of white whale). They are killer for lumpy.

Travis Provin · · Boulder CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 105

Haven't used offset cams but my god are the DMM offset nuts amazing! Even in non flared cracks they place really well.

bearded sam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145

I love my regular aliens but used a set of offset X4's for a weekend in Lumpy and started reaching for them before I reached for my aliens!

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

I've been using offset gear at lumpy for years. It can turn dicey pro into rock solid gear. I tend to carry about a 1/2 set of HB nuts and add some offset cams for certain routes. I personally have a set of old hybrid aliens but any brand is probably fine in aliens I tend to carry the blue/green green/yellow and yellow/red.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I've found my TCU's work well at Lumpy too. Just keep in mind to place them appropriately and extened your draws so your partner isn't digging in the back of a crack to get them out.

KayC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 225

My BD offset cams and DMM offset nuts are my go to gear.  Always have them racked even when climbing with my partner's rack.  I've always found the need for them. It also allows me to carry doubles without actually carrying double the weight.

Adam Reke · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined May 2013 · Points: 10

Man you can really zip that shit up in lumpy with some BD X4 Offsets, turns the unprotectable into bomber 

Tits McGee · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 280

Tricams. Cue up the haters, but I've led entire pitches with them at Lumpy.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Tits McGee wrote:

Tricams. Cue up the haters, but I've led entire pitches with them at Lumpy.

I've left nuts home in favor of tricams.  haha I even bought the black tri-cam specifically for leaving the belay to start the second pitch of White Whale because it was sooo perfect! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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