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Looking for consistent trad partner with alpine goals

Original Post
Matthew Windchime · · denver · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

I am a new lead looking to get out as much as possible. I lead up to 5.10 on sport, follow 5.11c/c but I am looking to do as high of a volume as possible of "cruiser" pitches on trad gear before summer arrives. Ideally, I would like to have a few regular, motivated partners who want to get out frequently and consistently.

I want to be prepared to climb long alpine routes this coming season by the end of this season. I would also like to get out with folks and practice self rescue a few times. If you are a seasoned lead who wants to get mileage in or a newer trad climber who is confident following harder grades, but happy to clean on long, easy routes at the beginning and eventually harder grades, then you are who I want to meet. I work a regular office gig and finish work at 530 and leave in Glendale. As it gets warmer, I am willing to climb at night during the week too. I look forward to hearing from you.

BoulderCharles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 80

For what it's worth, there is a lot more to climbing long alpine routes than proficiency with trad climbing. The objective hazards are much greater (weather, loose rock, etc.) and the skills required to be safe are greater (e.g., navigation to the route, route finding, knowing when to bail and when to push on).

Granted, I learned alpine climbing by doing routes before I was really ready. I'd just suggest aiming for routes that are very far within your comfort zone, both from a climbing perspective as well as a general alpine-hiking perspective. E.g., even though Whitney may be a technically easy rock climb, the totality of the day makes it a questionable choice for an early alpine leader. Heck, maybe even aim for something like an alpine scramble as your first excursion (where you need a rope for a few sections but are mostly just moving efficiently and comparing your expectations with your actual performance).

Anyway, have fun a good luck!

Matthew Windchime · · denver · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

Charles, thanks for the input. I definitely hear what you are saying. That's why I am trying to be explicit about where my skills are at and where I want them to be. I am in pretty good shape aerobically and feel like what I most need to work on is practicing building anchors efficiently, because if you're slow at that and you have a bunch of pitches, suddenly you've added hours to your climb and there is a storm coming. Not into that.

I just want to get from here, new trad lead, to there, experienced alpine lead. Whatever that takes, I want to do. But I am also very much safety-oriented. I want to be climbing for the rest of my life and I want that life to be a long one, haha.

Max Niebergall · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

I don't have a ton of experience with trad, but I'm looking for a similar situation as you. I've lead about 8 trad routes up to 5.8 (and a few sport/trad routes) but I have two years of sport climbing experience, leading up to 5.11, including multipitch sport. My goals this season are to do lots of routes on the flatirons and some easy stuff in Eldorado Canyon, and hopefully build up some alpine experience to do an objective like keyhole ridge on Longs peak. I know you are probably looking for someone who more experience, but I'm very safety oriented and experience trad climbers have told me my gear placements are good. I'll be available to climb outside nearly every weekend and most afternoons as well, as I get off work at ~3:30. Please pm me if you are interested!

Mkblast59 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

I am also looking for a consistent trad partner. I live in the Denver area and like to climb around Eldo and Boulder Canyon. I've got a 3 month old so I can't go out all the time but definitely on some weekends.

Micah Kurtz · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 60

^ This is my normal username by the way. I've been climbing trad for about 5 years, have a full rack, would love to climb more up at castle rock. My goal is to climb the casual route on the diamond this summer. Hit me up!

Colin Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 30

I have trad follow experience up to 5.10c. Built up a single rack over the winter season and led a couple of trad routes at 5.7. I have led 5.11 on sport. I enjoy alpine climbing and my major goals this season are the Casual Route and the Kasparov Traverse. Multipitch experience in sport and trad. I don't think I have climbed a single pitch outdoor route in over a year.

I live in Morrison and have a membership at Earth Treks. I work in Boulder and get on the flatirons once a week.

I have a 4 year old (who climbs) and a 1 year old.

I am a nursing student until the first week of May, then its summer break until August something.

I usually boulder at ET on Tuesday/Thursday nights after the kids go to bed and rope up on Wednesday from 1-3ish. I have clinicals the next 3 weekends until April 9th, so I can't do weekends until after that.

I am looking for people to climb after work (I can leave early any day of the week), one weekday (I work 4 days a week in the summer) and weekends. I'd like it if you were cool with kids, my son loves to be at the crag even if he doesn't climb. Super chill and fun kid.

I am not a supporter of smoking or drinking while climbing, just not my thing.

You can find me at……

Colin Zimmerman

KCLewis · · Grand Junction · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

I am also looking for a consistant/reliable trad partner as well. I live in Grand Junction, but I am interested in trad climbing both around this area and elsewhere. I climb in the gym frequently at the 5.11+ level and looking for a outdoor trad partner climbing in the 5.10+ range ( SO many great routes in this range including the Casual route on the Diamond. I have many years of experience including some big wall (the NW face of Half Dome).I have Friday through Sunday off every week. I have a very complete trad and big wall gear set and ready to get after some routes. I am 57 years old, but climbing harder now than 20 years ago.

Wes F · · DENVER, COLORADO · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 35

Pm sent

Don Ferris · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

I can personally vouch for Colin Zimmerman. He's a good guy, stoked on rock climbing and never complains when the going gets tough which seems to be hard to find these days. He is safe and a hoot to run around the mountains with.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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