(First time) Paradise Forks vs. Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona


Original Post
Matt McCormack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

I am looking for some guidance for both of these climbing areas as I have never been. Guidebooks, approach times, camping, and beta in general. I am passing through and looking to maximize my time as I make my way through Arizona to Utah. Trad kind of guy so pardise forks caught my eye as part of the description said ONLY a HANDFUL of BOLTS! If you have another area in mind feel free to mention it!

Cheers

dsmit · · Flagstaff, Az · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 335

www.mountainproject.com Get Sedona Rocks! for the goods in Oak Creek. 40 minute hike to the waterfall. There are campgrounds in the canyon. You can camp at Paradise Forks for free and the approach is 5 minutes. It is a rap in climb out crag. Pad the trees when you use them for anchors. The gym also has good info. Seriously though, the Mountainproject page for Northern Arizona is one of the best.

Matt McCormack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

I have been cruising through mountain project and it has great info! Thank you for the extra information and validating my research thus far. Will do on padding the trees if I end up in the forks.

Kevin D · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 160

Waterfall in oak creek canyon is Very similar to paradise forks. Basalt crack climbing. However waterfall is 5.10 and up. Paradise forks has some 8s and 9s.

kodyc3 · · Camp Verde, AZ · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 15

I'm more familiar with the climbing in oak creek canyon than paradise forks. I can give you more detailed info If you like. just shoot me a pm with any questions you have, and what kind of rock your looking to get on. I have good info on camping at both locations as well.

Matt McCormack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

I have never climbed on basalt and it looked very intriguing to me. Are the grades stiff at the Waterfall? I climb 11b/c trad in Jtree. Any comparison?

Kevin D · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 160

Similar grades at the waterfall but different type of climbing. The gear is not as tricky as j tree. You will be pleasantly surprised with the area.

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 230

If you climb at that level in JTree you will be fine at the Waterfall and will probably love it. JTree grades are a bit stiffer than Waterfall grades. The gear is more straightforward at that grade than at JTree too, as someone else said. Best trad crag in the country in my book. The Waterfall (aka the super-forks) is generally considered to be much higher quality climbing than the Forks.

Aaron Livingston · · Moab, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 100

Waterfall, waterfall, waterfall. The routes are long and there are over 130 of them at 1 crag!!! A lifetimes worth of high quality routes. Just be sure to keep a hard hat on while you're at the wall. There can be rockfall from above.

Forever Outside · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 160
Eric D wrote:If you climb at that level in JTree you will be fine at the Waterfall and will probably love it. JTree grades are a bit stiffer than Waterfall grades. The gear is more straightforward at that grade than at JTree too, as someone else said. Best trad crag in the country in my book. The Waterfall (aka the super-forks) is generally considered to be much higher quality climbing than the Forks.
What about the grade sandbags of JTree vs McDowells? About the same?
Matt McCormack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone. Sounds like the waterfall is the place to go!

Crush

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 230
Forever Outside wrote: What about the grade sandbags of JTree vs McDowells? About the same?
I have no idea. I have never climbed in the McDowells.
Matt McCormack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

The Waterfall was boss! Thank you for the suggestion 

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 230

No problem.  I'm glad you enjoyed it.  What a special place.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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