Advice on beginners Trade Rack for LCC and SLC area


Original Post
Gabe Byars · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

I am getting into trad and looking for advice on building a trad rack for Little Cottonwood Canyon. I have read the normal sources -Climbing, Backcountry,etc. But wanted local advice on any special considerations for the area. Thanks

T Roper · · DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 730

A set of stoppers and cams to 4" will do most everything.

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

I am not sure what a "Trade" rack is... ; ) but perhaps I can give you some advice on a a LCC trad rack.

I find a lot of placements for my X4's around here (smaller cams 0.1-0.75). Definitely want a set of nuts. How many pieces are we talking? What kind of budget constraints? If unlimited I would get doubles from 0.1-2. Then a single 3 and 4...but that is pretty greedy.

Gabe Byars · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Damn you, autocorrect! Yes, looking for advice on a TRAD rack for Little Cottonwood. I have a set of nuts, plus quickdraws, and slings. Budget is largely dependent on what I can convince my wife. I am betting I can get away with $400-500. Thanks

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

That could get you about 8 cams. +/- a few cams depending on the deal you get. Don't pay full price for cams...you can always find a -25% deal or better. I would get 0.2,0.3,0.4,0.5,0.75,1,2,3

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 55

On Handeater/Bongeater I place 4 #1's. So get that

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

LOL someone getting in to trad is not going to be hopping on bong eater. We are talking things like Pentapitch

Thumer · · SLC, UT · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 230

Yep, 4 #1's will get you up anything... But seriously, .5-3 should be your first priority. Then get .3 and .4. Then I would start doubling up on .5 to 2. I like Metolius cams too for the smaller sizes up to the red metolius (.75 BD). Most moderate routes in the canyon take medium cams well. Anyone who tells you to get tricams or hexes should not be trusted. Also, if you haven't climbed LCC much, start out on pretty easy routes. For a sport climber like myself, it took some time to get use to it (different style and stiff grades).

NickO · · Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

If you already have a set of nuts, I wouldn't run out and buy these right away but I have really liked the DMM offset nuts for LCC

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 20

Second on the DMM offsets. They're my favorite set

Carl Smith · · BeaUTAHfull · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 25
Gabe Byars wrote: I have a set of nuts
You should get a nut tool. :)
Tyler Needham · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 140

.3-4 in BD C4's plus your nuts should do the trick. You can probably find that whole set of cams for about $400 used.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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