Resting While Leading
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We've all been there. |
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Luckily (so far) I've been able to grit through enough to either climb to a ledgy spot or put in a screw, clip the rope and take. However, I think the fastest option would be to bury your pick deep and clip the PAS to your tool. I've had a partner do this before and it's pretty quick and relatively safe. Plus, once you're clipped to your tool you can usually get a screw in, which you can then clip a rope to it and double up on the safety while you de-pump. |
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Skibo wrote:If you need a bailout after getting too pumped, I'd suggest a fifi hook on a tether girth hitched to your harness. Work out the length before you need it (you don't want to sag too far below your tools). I used this system in the days of Chouinard screws, which required two hands to place/remove. I clipped to the spike, but you might also hook the pick against the ice. The idea of putting in a screw when you're too pumped to continue is stretching reality a bit. Putting in a screw is a lot more difficult than just continuing to climb. Managing the pump is key to leading long steep sections. Focus on recovery on every swing if the pump is building. Downclimbing to safety is a safe option--I've done that when I knew I wasn't going to top out without considerable risk.It is actually called a -Resting- fifi! More options There is also a three hole hookless placard type unit that allows for easy adjustment of a loop of cord, or a Tether - (PAS) The Slyde, Device for 'quick' length adjustment Then again there is Ice 'desperation gear' Scepter |
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In this order: clip to axe with sling + biner pre-girth hitched to belay loop, slowly weight the axe, shit pants, place screw carefully, breath sigh of relief. |
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A partner uses one of those petzl quick adjust PAs. It was great when he needed to rest in a hurry (cold ass -20 degree day, battle swings to get good sticks, bitch to get a screws started). Clip to the axe, pull up slack, then get a screw in while still standing. Kept the pull straight down on the axe and weight on the feet while he started a screw. |
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iceaxe5 wrote: - Take your rope and throw it over the top of your axe.Don't do this - most technical tools have the tops of picks sharpened to aid cleaning. iceaxe5 wrote: - Clip your PAS to the bottom of your axe. - Put a screw in and clip your PAS to it. - Put a screw in, clip a draw, and clip your rope in.All of these are fine. I've clipped directly to a well-placed tool and hung from it several times. |
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As per the OP you know you shouldn't so don't! |
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Thanks for the thoughts folks. Sounds like there is some consensus here... |
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If you need a bailout after getting too pumped, I'd suggest a fifi hook on a tether girth hitched to your harness. Work out the length before you need it (you don't want to sag too far below your tools). I used this system in the days of Chouinard screws, which required two hands to place/remove. I clipped to the spike, but you might also hook the pick against the ice. The idea of putting in a screw when you're too pumped to continue is stretching reality a bit. Putting in a screw is a lot more difficult than just continuing to climb. |
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I've rested mid-lead a few times. But never due to exhausted calves; it's always the grip and/or arms. Do people really get calf-gassed?? |
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Gunkiemike wrote:I've rested mid-lead a few times. But never due to exhausted calves; it's always the grip and/or arms. Do people really get calf-gassed??If you forget to drop your heels. :o) |
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I shakeout pumped forearms while im climbing and rest my calves by kicking out a place to put my foot sideways then stomping down hard to set my crampons. Any other type of resting is a strong indicator you need to go practice more on easier routes. |