Rock exotica soloist tips


Original Post
Kevin Mcbride · · Nelson · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 155

I recently acquired a rock exotica soloist, I've figured out the system and how to use it safely, but does anyone have any secret tips and tricks they figured out for optimal performance with this device. Thanks!

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 100

Yeah, don't do routes with cruxs that are close to the ground - the soloist can fail to lock up on upside down falls, but also falls where you end up horizontal to the ground. Friend took a beating the latter way once, but it as a 12a with a crux right off the ground.

Michael McNutt · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Have you led with it yet? One major thing that will make the climb miserable is if you twist your anchor line and free end. Avoid by not crossing the ropes when clipping. Backup on lead with clove hitches to non lockers. When the hitch gets to you, simply unclip the biner and keep going.

On long routes, the device will self feed. Fix this issue by tying the anchor line to your pro to keep the weight of the rope from pulling the line through your device.

Find some way to ensure that the device stays in a certain position on the biner attaching it to your chest harness. Also, make sure that the cord you are using to attach the bottom of the device to your belay loop is as short as possible. If it's too long, the device will try to catch in a horizontal position, which will obviously mean that it won't catch.

Anything else you want to know? I'm pretty well versed with this death contraption.

Kevin Mcbride · · Nelson · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 155
Michael McNutt wrote:Have you led with it yet? One major thing that will make the climb miserable is if you twist your anchor line and free end. Avoid by not crossing the ropes when clipping. Backup on lead with clove hitches to non lockers. When the hitch gets to you, simply unclip the biner and keep going. On long routes, the device will self feed. Fix this issue by tying the anchor line to your pro to keep the weight of the rope from pulling the line through your device. Find some way to ensure that the device stays in a certain position on the biner attaching it to your chest harness. Also, make sure that the cord you are using to attach the bottom of the device to your belay loop is as short as possible. If it's too long, the device will try to catch in a horizontal position, which will obviously mean that it won't catch. Anything else you want to know? I'm pretty well versed with this death contraption.
Thanks for the advice. Only leading I've done on it have been on my home wall, trying to get the system as safe and efficient as possible before going out to the crag. I never thought of using clove hitches for backups, definitely sounds a lot easier than trying to untie the knots.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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