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Best 5.11 trad lines in the Red?


Original Post
Timothy Nooney · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 45

Headed down really soon. Just wanted to know your thoughts on what's down there. I'm hoping to get on fibrulator and insanity ceiling, but do you guys have any other suggestions?

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35

If your hiking up to fib i sure as shit hope you warm up on crack attack!

Alot of the beene lines are really spectacular.

Bloodline 5.12- is dope.
One of my favorite cracks there is brontosaurus but its 10b.

Andromeda strain is also incredible but a 10a. Around the corner is synchronicity an 11a. both at roadside.

Matt Carroll · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 35

+1 for bloodline, although its a bit above your proposed 11 grade.

edit to add, vector trouble (or vector, I forget what it is called), same crag, awesome 5.10something.

B3 is also at that crag.

Finally, above mailbox is next day air, that was a bitchen 11! on MP it says PG13 but I don't remember it being run out at all..

This is all at the long wall I believe.

Taylor Harmon · · Hickory, NC · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Autumn, Rock Wars, B3 (looks great, not been on it), and a ride up Game Boy would make for a great day at Long Wall.

Eastern Sky Bridge is great too - Good Times, No Return, and Doppler Effect are all great moderate trad lines. For the 5.11 trad, Inhibitor, is your line. Also great sport climbs there too - Dave the Dude, King me, and one of my all time favs Super Dario. If you were psyched on 5.11 trad, you can also walk to Western Sky Bridge from ESB and do The Return of Geoff Beane, 5.10d.

Have a good trip! Lots of great climbing to be done in there parts.

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

Inhibitor is probably top 5 11's at the red

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 765
Tylerpratt wrote:If your hiking up to fib i sure as shit hope you warm up on crack attack! Alot of the beene lines are really spectacular. Bloodline 5.12- is dope. One of my favorite cracks there is brontosaurus but its 10b. Andromeda strain is also incredible but a 10a. Around the corner is synchronicity an 11a. both at roadside.
What is the corner /crack line named Arachnid ? Or something like that?
Arachnid. Very cool crack Only
5.8?
Taking a rest after pulling the roof on Arachnid 5.8 Red River Gorge.
Joshua Upchurch · · Midway, Utah · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

+1 for synchronicity

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,416

I really enjoyed Renegade at The Boneyard and Unsportsmanlike Conduct at Left Flank.

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35
Michael Schneider wrote: What is the corner /crack line named Arachnid ? Or something like that? Only 5.8?
I know I climbed all of tower rock but I cannot recall any specifics =(

I think I remember that roof not being nearly as hard as it looks though?
DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 341

Asks for 5.11 trad routes and gets people suggesting a bunch of 5.7-5.9's. Inhibitor is uber classic, Synchronicity is good and maybe a bit soft for the grade, Rebar at Gold Coast is super good!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Personally witnessed somebody take a 40' gear pulling whipper on Synchronicity. Not for me, lol...be careful on that one! Roadside's ratings are fairly stiff.

Cpt. E · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 95

B3 is fantastic!

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 341

I wouldn't say Roadside has particularly stiff ratings, the 10 wall might be a bit on the stiff side, but stuff like Ro Shampo and Synchronicity are soft IMO. Synchronicity's crux is stopping to place gear in the lower section, the upper section becomes more of a sporty face climb.

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 341

Not a 5.11, but if you're into adventure type stuff I highly recommend Day Tripping 5.10b at Eagle Point Buttress. Classic 5.9+ Dihedral, to a 5.10b crux on the next pitch, and a 5.9 squeeze chimney to top it out. Bonus: It's the tallest route in the Gorge.

Dirt Squirrel · · Golden , co · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 50

Renegade is good. Synchronicity is a sporty 5.11, take a pink tricam for about 8 feet below the anchors turns the run out into a pretty tame climb

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
DrRockso wrote:I wouldn't say Roadside has particularly stiff ratings, the 10 wall might be a bit on the stiff side, but stuff like Ro Shampo and Synchronicity are soft IMO. Synchronicity's crux is stopping to place gear in the lower section, the upper section becomes more of a sporty face climb.
Yeah, I'm not climbing 12s yet so I mainly based this on the 5.10 wall. Many of those would be 11s at PMRP or Muir. Roadside Attraction was pretty cruiser though.
Ben Dueweke · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 45

You gotta do Inhibitor. B3 is super good but less pure crack climbing. Fibrulator is awesome as well, but it's got a strange boulder problem at the start. Havent been on rebar but it looks amazing. Snychronicity is alright, but has a standard sport climb vibe while the others are a little more adventurous.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 765

Is Ro Shampo a different climb than Ro-Sham -Bo
An alternate name for the way to choose who's lead or try it is ; rock-paper-scissors,
also spelled "Roshambo," "Ro-Cham-Boe" or "Ro-Sham-Bo"?,
(the word has French origins,? and Italian & German versions @ least , too?)
Somewhere there is a picture of me on ((a soft (?) .12(?) Ro-sham-bo??))
with a draw in my mouth where I should have stick-clipped the start.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

I've heard the rating is very height/reach dependent, as there's one move that becomes a dyno if you're not an ape.

TomCaldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 2,588

South Side of Sky was fun and most of that cliff stays dry.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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