Mokule'ia Wall - TR anchors are just rap rings?


Original Post
Jonnie Thompson · · Winchester, VA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

So I'll be on Oahu for a couple weeks at the end of March and want to do some climbing. I looked up Mokule'ia Wall and read that pull cords are already attached to the anchors so you can setup a top rope from the bottom, since the cliff top isn't too solid for walking around and setting them up. I found a picture and some comments saying that the anchor is just a single rap ring. Is that true? That's what the picture I found shows also. Is the rap ring stainless or something? The rap rings I'm familiar with around here are aluminum and would hardly stand up to the abuse of repeated top roping, so wondering if these are solid seeing they are the only thing keeping your rope up.

I don't lead climb yet, so unfortunately can't climb it first and setup my own TR anchor off the bolts, otherwise that's what I'd do.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

There generally isn't such a thing as permanent toprope anchors unless you're in a gym. Don't TR off of them, it's a dick move. Use your own gear. Even clipping a QuickDraw to each and running your rope through that is fine, but DON'T TR DIRECTLY OFF OF FIXED GEAR!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Ted Pinson wrote:There generally isn't such a thing as permanent toprope anchors unless you're in a gym. Don't TR off of them, it's a dick move. Use your own gear. Even clipping a QuickDraw to each and running your rope through that is fine, but DON'T TR DIRECTLY OFF OF FIXED GEAR!
Um, before going on a rant maybe learn about the area in question? TR off of fixed gear is typically based on local ethics. If you check the route DB here you find:

"This area is equipped to be easily top-roped. Most of the routes will have strings running from the ground to the anchor and back to the ground so you can clove hitch your rope and pull it through the anchors at the top."

In the comments, one person wrote:

"FYI - The toprope lanyards set up out here are run through a single rap ring attached by quick links and chains to two bolts. This is NOT REDUNDANT. Every single group of climbers I saw out there pulled up a rope with the lanyard and went to town TRing and lowering on the single rap ring."

He also wrote: "Walking around to the top isn't an option here,..."

I suspect with both this person and the OP that there is confusion in the overloaded term "rap ring". Unfortunately that term has been used to refer to the rolled, thin-walled aluminum rings, the newer beefy, forged, solid but still aluminum rings, and stainless or titanium anchor rings. The last can indeed be used as a TR anchor, esp. if attached with quick links to allow replacement when worn. Yes, as the commenter whines, if indeed there are single rings, they're not redundant, but they are also rated to something like 40kN.

Old, worn descending ring:


Modern solid forged aluminum rap ring:


Modern, welded stainless 11mm anchor rings:
Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 270

Someone get a hold of user 20 kN please... No need to speculate here about an area few of us have climbed at.

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

This cliff has been painstakingly maintained by Mike R. and his Cimb Aloha minions for more than a decade, and has been completely rebolted with titanium. With that kind of attention and maintenance I don't think that you have anything to worry about. I've never "top roped" there, but can vouch that the hardware is top notch. And yes, 20 kn (Sayer?) is/was one of the CA minions and knows the crag intimately.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
Ted Pinson wrote:There generally isn't such a thing as permanent toprope anchors unless you're in a gym. Don't TR off of them, it's a dick move. Use your own gear. Even clipping a QuickDraw to each and running your rope through that is fine, but DON'T TR DIRECTLY OFF OF FIXED GEAR!
Just curious, did you even take the time to read and comprehend his post before replying?
J. Broussard · · CordryCorner · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 50

I've climbed there with and without Sayar/20kN. Both on lead and on TR. It's totally legit..

Just promise to have fun.. the routes are great and the equipment is totally safe.

George W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 8

I don't know the state of the fixed gear out there, but I would not climb without leading first. You must inspect the gear, especially in Hawaii.

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

George, I would agree with you, but after they had some issues with stress corrosion affecting the stainless hardware, the place has been re-equipped with titanium glue-ins.

George W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 8
the schmuck wrote:George, I would agree with you, but after they had some issues with stress corrosion affecting the stainless hardware, the place has been re-equipped with titanium glue-ins.
I see now. Well, I'm stoked to see so much development there in the last year. Titanium glue-in's are the only way. I need to get out there before some idiots piss off the State again.

Given the OP's skill-set, I think extreme caution should be advised. Climbing in this fashion is otherwise foolish, albeit the local way.
Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 73

Until 20 kN gets to it, this should answer some questions:

http://www.unrealhawaii.com/2010/06/mokuleia-crag/

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/how-do-you-set-up-your-anchors/110920221__1

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
Seth Jones wrote: Just curious, did you even take the time to read and comprehend his post before replying?
Yep!

Didn't realize they actually have TR anchors there, though....very unique. Honestly, I assumed based on the TS's experience level that he was planning on toproping directly off of the rings, hence my post. Hawaii seems to be a unique case, so...sure, go nuts if you're willing to trust that the anchors are intact.
Jonnie Thompson · · Winchester, VA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

As usual, thanks for all the feedback and advice. Much appreciated. I've never been to an area with a setup such as this, so just wanted to make sure its all on the up and up. Glad to hear this place is well traveled and maintained.

I did find Climb Aloha a few days ago and sent them a message about some climbing courses, but seems they can't offer anything right now...bummer. Still plan on giving them a visit when I get there.

20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,348

So I'll be on Oahu for a couple weeks at the end of March and want to do some climbing. I looked up Mokule'ia Wall and read that pull cords are already attached to the anchors so you can setup a top rope from the bottom, since the cliff top isn't too solid for walking around and setting them up. I found a picture and some comments saying that the anchor is just a single rap ring. Is that true? That's what the picture I found shows also. Is the rap ring stainless or something? The rap rings I'm familiar with around here are aluminum and would hardly stand up to the abuse of repeated top roping, so wondering if these are solid seeing they are the only thing keeping your rope up. I don't lead climb yet, so unfortunately can't climb it first and setup my own TR anchor off the bolts, otherwise that's what I'd do. With the exception of the 100% titanium anchors and a couple random other anchors, nearly every anchor at the Moke actually has two rings that you're top roping on. The titanium anchors only have one giant titanium ring as that's how they come from the factory, but that's the manufacturer-intended design and the anchor is certified for use in that configuration. The photo above is one example of the few stainless anchors remaining with a single ring and that's because that ring is a giant ring cut from 1/2" stock that's rated to an in insane capacity and it's on a very popular route. Hawaii is a unique place in that climbers do regularly top rope directly on the anchors. That's been an accepted custom since long before I moved there. Anyway, as with anywhere, top roping on an anchor that you have not inspected yourself always carries risk regardless of how many rings there are and what they are made out of, but climbers do top rope directly on the anchor regularly at The Moke. Have fun and be sure to rate and grade the climbs on Mountain Project when you're done.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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