Looking for new areas


Original Post
Jona Dul · · New Milford, CT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15

Let me preface by saying not legitimately new necessarily, new to me.
I have been climbing basically the same handful of areas since i started not too long ago. I'm trying to hunt down areas both on google maps, and here. Any recomendations for bouldering or slabs in the western half of CT, or new york? i live basically next to the new york border. two spots i specifically want help with, too, if anybody can: i hear in kent, ct there is a really kickass place to climb, but i haven't gotten the name of it yet, i think, and there was this place back when i was in scouts, somewhere along Ten Mile River in new york(i thought it was kent, ct for some reason), we camped next to a fork in the river, and there was a red foot bridge. somewhere nearby there were A LOT of rocks, some caves, and one area i remember that had one rock leaning against another creating a space large enough for at least a couple SUVs tall. i really wanna find that place again, see if there are good lines or not. any help and ideas would be appreciated

Joe M. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 9,380

I see a lot of bouldering pics from Northwest CT on Instagram but have no idea where they are from. Sorry for not being more helpful, but from the pics I have seen there is lots of great rock in that area...

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,361

Maybe you can list where you *have* climbed(?). What does the "slabs" distinction mean? Scrambles?

Gunks have a bunch of boulders and a pretty active bouldering community. There's also some scrambling.

There's stuff in Western and Central MA. That should be 1-1.5 hours drive for you.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Do you live in the southwest, northwest, or central west part of the 'border' area, as that effects which areas are most accessible for you? In any case, first you should get a copy of the 2nd edition of Rock Climbing Connecticut by Dave Fasulo--this has good information on the main areas in the state--though not that many close to the NY border, but it does have a section on Kent. Another good source is right here on MP--just scan the western section in the Connecticut Route Guide, or the southeastern areas in NY. In Mass, Great Barrington is just over the Connecticut border in SW Mass. and has great bouldering and good routes as well. I'm sure that Michael Schneider will chime in soon, as he is familiar with many unrecorded crags and boulders in the western CT./SE NY region.

Jona Dul · · New Milford, CT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15

Kevin i have climbed in Tarrywile park, the place on here called Stateline, Towner Hill/Irene's woods preserve up in Sherman, by the breadloaf boulder on route 7, and river road not far from the breadloaf, and Ice Pond in new york. and by slabs i do not mean scrambles. anything of boulder to bigger size that is less than vertical. i'd prefer challenging, sorta scary ones, they are my favorite(theres this one slab in ice pond i dont think has any named routes, yet, by the claw, its not necessarily hard, but its a big mind game for me to top out on it). i just want to find more slabs that are legitimately fun and not super easy

alan, i live in new milford, so central west. can drive maybe 7 minutes or so to the new york border by gaylordesville. thanks for the book reccomendation and i've been meaning to climb with schneider, i don't know why i haven't yet honestly

Jona Dul · · New Milford, CT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15
Joe M. wrote:I see a lot of bouldering pics from Northwest CT on Instagram but have no idea where they are from. Sorry for not being more helpful, but from the pics I have seen there is lots of great rock in that area...
you should see Towner Hill/Irene's Woods Preserve in sherman. theres this one large boulder by the sign at the beggining, its large, i call it the titanic. on the left edge is a problem i think is a solid v6, i call Titanoboa, which i broke my back on technically. its my favorite place besides ice pond so far. so pretty
Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

It seems like you're mostly interested in bouldering and I have no doubt that the woods in that area have plenty of hidden gems--I know there are some around Danbury--again Michael Schneider is your 'man'. Kent isn't too far from you. I've only done roped climbing there--really good slabs--and that was a very long time ago, and I don't have any memory of the bouldering options, though no doubt there are some. As I mentioned earlier, Great Barrington isn't that far and really is a major bouldering destination, so definitely should check it out.

Morgan Patterson · · CT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,332

When the glaciers moved over CT 12-10k years ago or so they flowed from NW to SE. As a result, you will often find pockets of boulders/bouldering on steep SE facing slopes that rise above swampy or streamed terrain.

As for a tip... I would check out the Cornwall area along route 7 on the river, Eastern / SE facing slopes.

Jona Dul · · New Milford, CT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15

alan bouldering is a main focus, because of certain handicaps. it probably isnt a good idea to fall from too high with a hole in your head, to relieve the brain issue that causes occasional full to partial limb paralysis/uselesness. i am working at it and i do want to climb, so im gonna try and find those kent slabs you mentioned. the bouldering in kent i have seen so far is spread out quite a bit, and i havent seen much yet. as for the woods, the breadloaf is listed here, but the multitude of mostly lowball boulders around the trails behind it are not. my most perfected climb is back there, little v2 i call eyeball. OH WAIT i forgot to mention, i have climbed in lovers leap state park. literally 5 or 6 boulders, thats it, but i am fairly sure at least one large slab, and good cliff stuff, but from what i have seen it is jagged, not to mention right on the river. people have died there, at least one climber has i think. so when i get good at top-roping or whatever other form fits those cliffs, that will be another great spot

Jona Dul · · New Milford, CT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15
Morgan Patterson wrote:When the glaciers moved over CT 12-10k years ago or so they flowed from NW to SE. As a result, you will often find pockets of boulders/bouldering on steep SE facing slopes that rise above swampy or streamed terrain. As for a tip... I would check out the Cornwall area along route 7 on the river, Eastern / SE facing slopes.
thanks for the tip! and yeah some of the best boulders i have ever seen or attempted have been on quite steep hills, at least steep enough for a pad to slip/not be a great idea to fall on cuz you WILL roll
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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