Vertigo beta request


Original Post
Eliot Augusto · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

TL;DR - Can I french free my way up Vertigo if I get too scared?

Long:
Soooo I really want to lead Eldo 11s. But for any number of reasons I haven't yet been able to do it, and most of it is mental. 10ft between TCU placements doesn't do much to help out either. I've taken a lead fall on a purple TCU, so I "trust" the gear. I have led 11+ in Indian Creek, and 11s on granite around the front range.

Vertigo seems like a great route to throw myself in to the frying pan. Are there any reasons that it shouldn't be considered "beginner" friendly? I do understand this is an 11 in Eldo...but maybe that is my issue.

George Perkins · · The Dungeon, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,109

It's good gear and closely spaced, compared to some other classic 11s at Eldo. Go get it!

If you haven't done so already, it might make sense to climb a half dozen Eldo 10s first to see how those feel.

Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 93

There are easier 11s to be had in Eldo if you are looking to move your way up and for that matter plenty of sandbagged 10s :)
Great route but but the crux is a bit temperature and humidity dependent IMHO. First pitch isn't a gimme either so might be a good gauge for you (looking at the official pitch break down I link 1+2 as the first).

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,331

I think it's one of the safer 11s in Eldo. The gear for the crux is small (green Alien) but is good and can be placed easily. Some other safe 11s in the canyon that might be a good choice to work include Supremacy Crack, Disappearing Act, Parallels, and Pony Express. The first pitch of Iron Horse protects well but there is a small runout on easier climbing after the crux. Joke Crack is very well-protected but it's highly contrived and you need a lot of mind control not to stem over to the Purple Haze corner.

Andy Kowles · · Longtuckles · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 65

Concur with the others. It's super french-free-able and steep and spectacular position and exposure...worth it to try. But it's kind of like you'd be skipping a bunch of other routes and jumping right to the creme de la creme...your call. You can do it though.

20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,352

Yes you can french your way up the .11 pitch if needed. It's a fairly splitter dihedreal crack and it's short. You can place a piece every foot if you want, although you'd get pumped quick trying. The dihedral section is probably only about 40' long and then the pitch is pretty much done. Also, when I climbed it two years ago there was a ton of fixed gear on it.

Eliot Augusto · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

Awesome. Thanks for all the info! I'll report back with a glorious duckface selfie.

Eliot Augusto · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

Thanks for the info. It was an amazing climb. I suddenly have an urge to sell all my quickdraws and buy a dozen small cams.

Do you folks have suggestions any other "beginner" friendly 11's? Or 10 dihedrals? I found a big flaw in my technique on the 3rd pitch.

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,331
Eliot Augusto wrote:... I suddenly have an urge to sell all my quickdraws and buy a dozen small cams...
I like your style, dude.
Jon W · · Longmont Colorado · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 95
Eliot Augusto wrote:Thanks for the info. It was an amazing climb. I suddenly have an urge to sell all my quickdraws and buy a dozen small cams. Do you folks have suggestions any other "beginner" friendly 11's? Or 10 dihedrals? I found a big flaw in my technique on the 3rd pitch.
Outer Space (do the northcut carter start Or if your brave first pitch of WIde country to XM to outer pace)

Tagger
Center Route
NW corner or the bastile
Hair City
T2
Arts spar
All of rincon
Pony Express
Zip code
Iron Pony

Bucnh of easy 10s like:
Chockstone
Xanadu
there is a start.
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Eliot Augusto wrote:Thanks for the info. It was an amazing climb. I suddenly have an urge to sell all my quickdraws and buy a dozen small cams. Do you folks have suggestions any other "beginner" friendly 11's? Or 10 dihedrals? I found a big flaw in my technique on the 3rd pitch.
:
Maybe not for beginner simple pro... learn some nutcraft:
Over the hill
Disappearing act
2nd for outer space
zip code
Mail ridge link-up
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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