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Summer shade on The Captain


Original Post
Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

haha funny, but I'm not joking.

I'm looking at Soloing Mescalito the first week of June. Yeah, hot, but I can't get to the valley any other time this year.

I'm working on my strategy and I'm curious if anyone has any idea of approximately what time the Wall of Early Morning Light goes into the shade in the afternoon?

I'm thinking about hunkering down mid day using my porta fly as a shade structure then blasting into the night.

Any advice and/or beta would be grand.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420
Sam Keller wrote:haha funny, but I'm not joking. I'm looking at Soloing Mescalito the first week of June. Yeah, hot, but I can't get to the valley any other time this year. I'm working on my strategy and I'm curious if anyone has any idea of approximately what time the Wall of Early Morning Light goes into the shade in the afternoon? I'm thinking about hunkering down mid day using my porta fly as a shade structure then blasting into the night. Any advice and/or beta would be grand.
What other routes have you done?

Are you attached to doing Mescal-tits?
Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Hey King Tut,

I've climbed Lurking Fear, Zodiac, and TTrip on the Captain. I've also done Lost Arrow Direct. That's about all I've done in the Yosemites....

But I am a Zion local, I've climbed up to A3+ here.

I'm not too attached to Mescalito, my initial idea was to try PO wall, but I am open to anything really. I just dont want to get my face baked off.

Sam

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420
Sam Keller wrote:Hey King Tut, I've climbed Lurking Fear, Zodiac, and TTrip on the Captain. I've also done Lost Arrow Direct. That's about all I've done in the Yosemites.... But I am a Zion local, I've climbed up to A3+ here. I'm not too attached to Mescalito, my initial idea was to try PO wall, but I am open to anything really. I just dont want to get my face baked off. Sam
Sounds awesome, Sam.

All I was getting at is that you can simply alter your choice of route depending on the weather for your window. In a heat wave its a perfect time to be on a cold route (ie Shield) in a colder temp time, Mescalito is fine.

Too hot for Tommy and Kev on the Dawn wall is comfy on those routes for aiding. They just get much less wind in the protective lee of the Nose making them extra hot when its hot.

June might be ideal, July, August and Sept proly not likely ideal.
Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Hey King Tut,

I was just giving you my Yosemites resume in the hopes of a great route suggestion if you think Mescalito is a bad idea. The Shield is an interesting idea that I hadn't thought of before. I'll keep your suggestion in mind. Thanks!

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420
Sam Keller wrote:Hey King Tut, I was just giving you my Yosemites resume in the hopes of a great route suggestion if you think Mescalito is a bad idea. The Shield is an interesting idea that I hadn't thought of before. I'll keep your suggestion in mind. Thanks!
As long as the route is dry there almost always a route to be on, with the possible exception of the 100+ degree days in the worst heat waves.

All you gotta do is arrive in the Valley and see how its going to be when you are there. Its gonna be a beautiful spring.

I gave you two extremes. I wouldn't go on Mescalito when it is exceptionally hot. Don't go on the Shield when it is cold (its exceptionally windy). Most routes (other than their neighbors) are somewhere in between.

Be sure to also check Falcon closures. They nest over by NA and routes to some distance on either side get closed till Fall.
Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Hey Sam - I climbed Mescalito in September a few years back. Great route, and likely a good route to solo.

I believe we got shade somewhere between 2 and 3 pm. Sure was nice - that moment when we lost the sun!

Mornings are cool enough you can likely fix a pitch, and then hide out from mid morning until you lose the sun.

Wally

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

It is closed due to raptors right now.

nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/…

They built a nest right on The Bismarck in past years.
The closure has been lifted more times than it has been left in place so you might not be SOL just yet. I'd have a back up route just in case though.

I'm going to be on a nearby route in that same time frame. It might be hot, it might be cold and it might be perfect. You won't know till you're there and see the 5 day forecast.

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

Bring a small umbrella to hide under, makes a huge difference while hunkering down waiting for shade/darkness.

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

I did Mescalito a few years ago in June. It was a sweet route but it was hot. The sun hits you really early probably before 7 am depending on how high up you are and when in june. The top of the wall (as per the name) is probably in the sun by 6 am. If my memory serves me right the wall goes into the shade around 2:30 or 3:00. Hudon is right that it is closed right now. I did the shield last june and it was amazing so thats a good option. The shield is also one of the cooler places on the wall due to its position and the thermal winds that pick up in the afternoon when the sunn hits the face. It wasn't super hot when we did it, probably low 80's on the valley floor but we were belaying in puffy's on the headwall and leading in capilene and a wind shirt. The cruxes on the shield felt harder than zodiac for sure. Mescalito and the shield felt comparable but Mescalito is more sustained. It also has a lot of pendulums which you don't find on the shield. They are both awesome so have fun.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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