Joshua Tree Advice for Walk-Offs "Walk-Ups" Por Favor


Original Post
David Fogel · · Lake Forest, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 515

Currently in recovery from a climbing injury. Still have a temporary limp, getting stronger by the week. I am familiar with Joshua Tree, but would like some advice on any walk-off climbs. Por favor amigos y amigas... I need to walk up, anchor, and belay from above for my climbing friend. In fact it'll be faster because I am belaying one climber up and not leading it. Indian Cove has some, Atlantis, Thin Wall (I ain't going to Thin Wall! Noooo!) Anyone else know some spots I can walk up/down? Much appreciation friends...

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 120

Yay!!

That's all I got. H.

RandyLee · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 5

It's good to be getting back to it, isn't it? I broke my leg just before you were injured, and I'm finally back to leading. You've got the right attitude, keep at it!

And hopefully someone who has more experience than I in Joshua Tree can help out.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 105

Echo Cove... you can scramble up and TR a whole bunch of stuff. Bacon Flake etc.

Good to see you back out, being on the DL sucks.

Backstep · · Redlands · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 5

You can walk to the top of Echo Rock and belay for most of the slab routes there (Double Dip 5.6, Stichter Quits 5.7, et al). Last time in Jtree we did Bussonier and Papa Woolsley on the Blob, both tops can be access via 4th class scrambling. If I remember correctly Touch and Go 5.9 is a walk off.

For a lead you should do The Eye 5.3, a phenomenal and long route for the grade. Also a walk off. Good luck, I know how awesome it feels to be climbing again after an injury hiatus!

steverett · · San Diego, CA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 40

The outer wall of Hall of Horrors (buckets to burbank, holds to hollywood, etc.) is very easy to walk up.

Conan's Corridor

The Wall (at least Hands Off)

Much of Echo Cove

David Fogel · · Lake Forest, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 515

Damn you all just got me so pumped up! It certainly is great to be out there again. Thanks for the responses everyone!

Old lady H · · Boise, Idaho · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 120

Sir, I am jealous. A "phenomenal 5.3"? Oodles of great "easy" routes? Ah well.

You will run into stuff that just isn't going to happen, because of your ankle, and will have to dig deep to find every possibility that you can come up with, for a work around. And, perhaps, still get shut down. Today...but.. :-)

You and I sir, know this, right now, every climb. Others get there too, that's what we pursue, but it will likely be the rock, the type of climb, lots of factors. 4' 11" and arthritis is a given, your ankle is a given, but....It means every climb we ever even think about will ask us for a whole lot of try hard to solve the puzzle.

In a sense, with a physical challenge built in, every climb is a hard climb, and, if you have to put that much more into it, it's the equivalent to a higher grade for an "average" climber, if such a thing existed!

And that is pure fun!

Have an absolutely wonderful time. You've more than earned it!

Helen

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 115

If you can lead 5.5, two places come to mind and you won't have to belay on top (much).

Reggie Dome west Face (10 minute approach) has a juggy hand crack called The Chief, 5.5**. It's gorgeous, pretty short, and you can sew it up. Bring your partner up.
Then build an anchor in the good cracks on top of Pop goes Hawaiian 5.7 to the left, lower down if you want to, and climb it and pop goes the weasel 10.d . With your recovering leg, keep a tight rope at the start of Pop/Hawaiian.

From the top of Pop, move left and down a few steps and find the bolted anchors on top of four more routes (slabby face) 5.6, 5.8, 10.b (boulder start) and 5.9 (variation start to the 10.b). You can TR all of these from the bolted anchors.

The other place that comes to mind is the Cathouse lower wall (10-15' approach East facing?).
There is a climb called Felix, 5.4. My recollection is that it was very secure and very protectable. That takes you to a bolted anchor from which you can toprope two other routes 5.7 and 5.8. The gear on these last two is quite sketchy and the climbing is not obvious, so the toprope is not a bad option!

Have fun!

Drederek · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 305

The south Astrodome is a walk up!

David Fogel · · Lake Forest, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 515

Thanks Helen! You and I certainly do know what it feels like and how to operate around "minor" setbacks. Pure fun indeed, thanks and I am looking forward to hearing about that lead you posted about.

Phylyp: I haven't checked out reggie dome, just checked it out in my books, looks cool!I will check that out Sat or Sun, thank you for detailing that beta!

Dred: oh snap...astrodome...Ive hiked by it...maybe one day!

wing thing · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 55

The Bong 5.4, although the walk off seems almost tougher than leading it. Good luck with your recovery.

Forever Outside · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 150

false lieback on cap rock

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 204

Grainsurgery wall. Lead the 5.4 chimney, then toprope the excellent 5.10 face climbs.

Virgin Isles off Geology Tour road has some really cool 5.9s and 5.10s, and no one around, cool area to explore. Light Sabre 10b and (?) 5.9 on Star Wars rock have a walk-up and bolts at top. There's also a fun 5.2 tunnel route you can do. Perpetual motion (10) (and probably the other routes on that formation, haven't done them) is a bit of scrambling to the top, gear anchor.

Hemingway Buttress has a walk off/up even though most people rap. Tons of good routes there.

At Split Rock you can go up to Bird of Fire. There's not really a walk up, but there's a 5.4 you can do, that gives you access to everything on that formation. Then in the corridor behind it ("Isles Corridor" on MP) you can climb the 5.0 downclimb on the far left to get to the top and set ropes on any those cracks. The "Right side" of the corridor is accessed from on top of Bird of Fire, and the "left side" is via that 5.0 crack. Tons of cracks 5.6-5.10 up there.

Touch and Go 5.9 has a walk off. Echo Rock has a walk off, so you can do stuff like Stitcher quits 5.7.

Upper freeway wall has a walk off. Fun 5.8-5.10s.

Lost Horse wall has a walk off. Bring your 100m and show all those people learning how to multipitch a lesson on how it's really done.

Sports Challenge Rock has a walk off. Get your pump on.

Recover well.

David Fogel · · Lake Forest, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 515

Dude...excellent and thorough advice. Thanks for spending the time to detail all of that, definitely getting as much as I can get in Tomorrow and and Sunday. I'm pumped up!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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