Mountain Project Logo

Newer TC pros wider? Options for similar fit but slightly narrower toe box?


Original Post
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

I have been loving TC pros for years. I had to send off the pair I had been using for resole, and broke out my newest(3rd or 4th) pair of TC pros a couple months ago. They seemed a little different (i.e. poorer) performance, but it wasn't until they broke in well that I noticed why. Yesterday specifically my foot was rolling off edges where they shouldn't. When I had a close look, there is space along the inside of the foot/ball of foot/ big toe. I got the resoled pair back from the resoler, and held them side by side. The new pair is noticeably wider, enough that there is too much width for good edging on my foot.

Is this a one off, just normal variation in production or a trend in the TC pro?

Based on this, I won't order any more via mail order, and will compare new ones to my old ones for toe width

And, What's the next narrower shoe with overall similar fit and performance? NO DOWNTURNS! has to be very similar last to TC pro.

Thanks

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Hmm...that's weird. My suspicion is it was a one-off; remember, these are hand made. Could also be due to how it was laced; are the laces the same length? The upper is leather, so perhaps it just stretched?

Maybe try the new Anasazi Whites? I believe Anasazis tend to run a bit narrower, although the toebox is less asymmetrical. Worth a shot, though, as they are suppose to be the best edgers.

jg fox · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
mountainhick wrote:I have been loving TC pros for years. I had to send off the pair I had been using for resole, and broke out my newest(3rd or 4th) pair of TC pros a couple months ago. They seemed a little different (i.e. poorer) performance, but it wasn't until they broke in well that I noticed why. Yesterday specifically my foot was rolling off edges where they shouldn't. When I had a close look, there is space along the inside of the foot/ball of foot/ big toe. I got the resoled pair back from the resoler, and held them side by side. The new pair is noticeably wider, enough that there is too much width for good edging on my foot. Is this a one off, just normal variation in production or a trend in the TC pro? Based on this, I won't order any more via mail order, and will compare new ones to my old ones for toe width And, What's the next narrower shoe with overall similar fit and performance? NO DOWNTURNS! has to be very similar last to TC pro. Thanks
Seeing how La Sportiva hand makes their shoes, I would write this off as a variance in craftsmanship. I've owned four pairs of Mythos with three the same size and those three did not fit the same.

Sorry you aren't getting your monies worth out of them.
Robin S · · OR · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 30

Check out the Butora Altura

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25

This is why it makes sense to try on 3-4 pairs of the same size, same model and buy the best fitting L and R from all of them. I've noticed quite a bit of variance in actual size within a single factory labeled size.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Ted Pinson wrote: Could also be due to how it was laced; are the laces the same length? The upper is leather, so perhaps it just stretched?
No.

The width across the sole rubber and the interior are wider as if constructed on a wider last. The inside edge wraps up around the side of the toe in use rather than staying under the toe.

Re: trying on multiple pairs, let's just say due to working in the outdoor industry, buying in a retail store made absolutely no financial sense at the time of purchase.

Ted Pinson wrote: Maybe try the new Anasazi Whites? I believe Anasazis tend to run a bit narrower, although the toebox is less asymmetrical. Worth a shot, though, as they are suppose to be the best edgers.
Thanks for the thought. Are the whites based on more or less the same foot shape/last as other anasazi models, classic, green, pink etc?
Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
mountainhick wrote: Re: trying on multiple pairs, let's just say due to working in the outdoor industry, buying in a retail store made absolutely no financial sense at the time of purchase.
I hear ya, I've ordered 3 pairs of the same shoe, same size online then returned the 2 pairs that didn't fit as well. Sure, you pay 7 bucks in return shipping and have to pay for all 3 pairs up front but I think it's worth it to get a good fit.
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Robin S wrote:Check out the Butora Altura
Thanks,

Do these soften up as much as TC pros? I am not looking for super edging shoes per se, and really prefer my TC's after wearing out the first sole and resoling. The end up quite a lot softer.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
mountainhick wrote: No. The width across the sole rubber and the interior are wider as if constructed on a wider last. The inside edge wraps up around the side of the toe in use rather than staying under the toe. Re: trying on multiple pairs, let's just say due to working in the outdoor industry, buying in a retail store made absolutely no financial sense at the time of purchase. Thanks for the thought. Are the whites based on more or less the same foot shape/last as other anasazi models, classic, green, pink etc?
Yeah. Same last as far as I know, but much more aggressive in terms of heel tension, and much stiffer.

For comparison, here's the Pinks and TC Pros, both in EU size 46, although clearly that means something else to each company, as the Pinks are also a bit shorter:

Pink vs Pro 1

Pink vs Pro 2

Pink vs Pro 3
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Thanks Ted,

Anasazi last doesn't work for me. I'm thinking maybe back to Scarpa. I had old Technos that were a but narrow but would rather deal with that than shoes that are too wide.

No rush though, My other TCs are back with fresh soles.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Ted Pinson wrote: My suspicion is it was a one-off; remember, these are hand made.
jgfox wrote: Seeing how La Sportiva hand makes their shoes, I would write this off as a variance in craftsmanship.
While this maybe a one-off, a few years back, Sportiva climbing shoes across a number of models got a bit narrower (supposedly from a new stitcher) that long time wearers found their usual sizes to not fit anymore (and definitely drove me toward Scarpa). This seems to have been "corrected", but maybe not in the direction the OP prefers.
Robin S · · OR · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 30
mountainhick wrote: Thanks, Do these soften up as much as TC pros? I am not looking for super edging shoes per se, and really prefer my TC's after wearing out the first sole and resoling. The end up quite a lot softer.
Not sure, I haven't worn them. I work in a gear shop where we sell them. They're hemp lined so they shouldn't stretch much. I know that out of the box, they're just as stiff as the TC pro. I don't know if the fit is the same, definitely try them on.
rkrum · · Colorado or somewhere else · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

You might be onto something. I have owned a pair of 39.5 tc pros a few years ago that I also did not like after they broke in. I bought a friend's resoled 39.0 and while the performance was what I was looking for, they sorta made my feet cry. Mainly by curling and crushing my 4th and 5th toes. I recently bought a new pair in a 38.5. Even when they weren't really broken in, they were much more comfortable than my old 39s, especially in width.

Also, I do like the butora altura, but with a couple of caveats. They need a resole out of the box to even come close to competing with a tc pro. I usually am not super picky on rubber but the butora rubber might have more in common with butyl glue than rubber that belongs on climbing shoes. The last definitely feels "flatter" than too and I am not sure why - maybe the rand pulls less tension than the tc pro? End result for me is they do not feel quite as precise or as powerful when it comes to thin edging.

They also have a different flex profile than a tc pro. I like how the the tc pro starts to soften right behind the ball of the foot. The altura the box is a little stiffer than a tc pro at the front, and stays stiff until the midfoot. It's a little more clunky overall.

Where the butora wins is build quality, comfort, and 2 different fits.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Super info! thanks all!

How are Scarpas comparing to Sportivas width wise these days?

BRB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 40

I have a pair of TC 44.5s from 2 yrs ago that fit me perfect. Bought another couple pairs of 44.5 to replace that one about 8 mos ago. They both run almost a half size big.

Just bought more TC 44.5s and 44.0s to try on, the 44.5's are still just as big. 44.0s are too tight.

wish I had bought 3 pairs 2 yrs ago but assumed that they wouldn't be changing lidat

Alex Rogers · · Sydney, Australia · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 40

I have a new pair of Scarpa Techno X which I bought instead of the TC Pros, for the same type of climbing. I love them, comfortable, precise, best edging shoes I've ever had, and now that they have a little wear on them, they even smear well.

But be careful of the sizing - I had to go up from my usual 44-45 to size 46, they are ridiculously undersized. I strongly recommend trying them on if you can, otherwise go up a full size from your normal if ordering online.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

If the resole included having the rand redone at all then that will change the shape too. My buddy just got his TCs resoled along with the rand and the toe is more narrow now.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Alex Rogers wrote:I have a new pair of Scarpa Techno X which I bought instead of the TC Pros, for the same type of climbing. I love them, comfortable, precise, best edging shoes I've ever had, and now that they have a little wear on them, they even smear well. But be careful of the sizing - I had to go up from my usual 44-45 to size 46, they are ridiculously undersized. I strongly recommend trying them on if you can, otherwise go up a full size from your normal if ordering online.
Thank Alex!

Ryan Hamilton wrote:If the resole included having the rand redone at all then that will change the shape too. My buddy just got his TCs resoled along with the rand and the toe is more narrow now.
Not.

Thanks for the thought anyway.
ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 50

The Katana Lace are narrower, but the toebox design is different as well, so you'd have to try on a pair. I think they probably "edge out" the TCP's in edging.

I gave up on the Katanas since they were too narrow, and now use the TCP's, which fit my wide-ish foot much better...but I only have the one 2016 pair to go by.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Thanks, I have tried Katana lace, but as stated in my original post in somewhat more emphatic language, I can't tolerate downturns.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Lol. Katana laces have a gentle downturn.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply