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Climbs in Zion National Park for 5.8 climber with a recovering ankel


BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340
Drew Spaulding wrote: BUT,,, people that have succumbed to the degradation of it's true name RED ROCKS, must have only started climbing there in the last 10 years. Whoever decided to call it Red Rock,,, should be sued.
this is uninformed and incorrect
Mike-Mayhem · · Bozeman. MT · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 60

What does everyone think of Ashtar Command? Sounds like it's a mellow approach, is it sandbagged?

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449

Second reccomendation for led by sheep

Mike-Mayhem · · Bozeman. MT · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 60
Mike Womack wrote:+1 for snow canyon state park. There's great trad/sport climbs up to 4 pitches long. Recommended routes in the 5.8ish grade are: stepping out, just desserts, and leopard skin.
Thanks for the recommendation! I'll look into these, could be great for the day before we get to red rock!!
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Drew Spaulding wrote: BUT,,, people that have succumbed to the degradation of it's true name RED ROCKS, must have only started climbing there in the last 10 years. Whoever decided to call it Red Rock,,, should be sued.
They didn't call it Red Rock, they (the BLM) call it Red Rock National Conservation Area.
Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an… · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

It's ZION, not ZIONZ...

+1 mark

Only people from Utah call it Zions. I asked during my time living in the canyon. It seemed as if Zions Bank is responsible.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,122
Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:It seemed as if Zions Bank is responsible.
I bet this is the case, but it is true, everyone from UT calls it Zions.
Sean C · · SLC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 230
Mike-Mayhem wrote:What does everyone think of Ashtar Command? Sounds like it's a mellow approach, is it sandbagged?
Ashtar Command has virtually zero approach, second pitch is full value for the grade from what I remember. Unfortunate thing is most of the other routes right around the area are closed for Peregrine nesting through the spring. Headache is open but a little above your stated MO. Red Rock is honestly a better bet for climbing if you can make the drive.
Aaron Livingston · · Moab, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 120

Ashtar is good, but likely to be cold this time of year. Also crack jamming and a busted up ankle is not likely to equal a good time. Outside of ashtar, climbing in Zion typically starts at the 510 level for multi pitch routes. so I'll also recommend snow canyon state park instead.

Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Ashtar Command is about the only thing that will satisfy the bill.

The Approach to Lead by Sheep will be too hard for her, it's quite long walking up a steep sandstone ramp.

And it is Zion. ONLY Utahns call it Zions, and it's usually because they are confused by the bank Zions Bank....

Source; I'm a local. It's fucking called Zion!

Ian Dorko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 100

Zion is amazing (even if you're not climbing) but might be tough given the climbing limitations you stated...

You might consider going to the san rafael swell and doing some of the super long moderate climbing there.

Either way, have fun!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Ian Dorko wrote:You might consider going to the san rafael swell and doing some of the super long, extremely run-out moderate climbing there.
Added that nugget of info for ya!
RangerJ · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 65

As others have said, the approach to Led By Sheep would be interesting for you. There are some moderate climbs close to the road in Zion, just not many. Practice cliffs is probably your best bet, and Casual Sex is the best climb there.

mountainproject.com/v/casua…

There are a couple first pitches at Cereberus Gendarme that would work, too.
mountainproject.com/v/cave-…

The approach is a bit longer, but The Confluence also has some that fit the bill.
mountainproject.com/v/ghett…

Good luck.

James T · · Livermore · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 80

Anyone care to comment on Weeping Rock Chimney ?

It seems like the first two pitches are more mellow than the third, but that's only from what the interwebz has told me.

brian burke · · santa monica, ca · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 120

+1 to ashtar command. super fun, no approach, a really nice line.

Aaron Livingston · · Moab, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 120
James T wrote:Anyone care to comment on Weeping Rock Chimney ? It seems like the first two pitches are more mellow than the third, but that's only from what the interwebz has told me.
I walked up to it one day and discovered a den full of angry and fierce rattlesnakes (Mojave I suspect, which is really bad news) at the base of the route. They could be gone, but I'm not really sure that route would fit the needs of this party.
James T · · Livermore · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 80

Yuck. I've spent enough time avoiding those suckers in southern carl - no need to push my luck.

The family is meeting us in ZionZ for 4th of July (yes, we're insane) and I was thinking of trying to find some climbing similar to the OP. I'd love to explore other regions of the park, but it's my parents first time there and I'm trying not to be selfish (Namaste Wall will have to wait). We'll do all the classic touristy things and I'll drag them up Angel's Landing. This trip may be more about photography than climbing, but maybe I can steal the car and drive out to aires butte for Led by Sheep

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

^^^The only thing you'll want to do on 4th of youlie in Zion is play in the river/narrows..........gunna be hawt

JK- Branin · · Southern New Hampshire · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 58
Marc801 wrote: Pssst! It's Zion.
Marry me?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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