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Climbs in Zion National Park for 5.8 climber with a recovering ankel

Original Post
Mike-Mayhem · · North Bend, WA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70

ok, so I am going to start by saying that this post is out of my own Lazyness.

Im leaving the GREAT ice of hyalite canyon for a road trip with my girlfriend in search of some warmer weather. She is recovering from an ankle injury, so she is sort of limited to 5.6-5.7 climbs with a mellow approach.

That being said, I thought what better than to ask people who get to climb there everyday.

If there is an area close to zion that is better for this type of stuff, that would work too. I just think that she would probably enjoy more getting a climb in, in the park than outside..

Thank you for any input you have, your reccomendations have saved me a couple hours of research :)

Just looking for 1 day worth of climbing, not an entire trips worth :)

Mike

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Mike-Mayhem wrote:ok, so I am going to start by saying that this post is out of my own Lazyness. Im leaving the GREAT ice of hyalite canyon for a road trip with my girlfriend in search of some warmer weather. She is recovering from an ankle injury, so she is sort of limited to 5.6-5.7 climbs with a mellow approach. That being said, I thought what better than to ask people who get to climb there everyday. If there is an area close to zion that is better for this type of stuff, that would work too. I just think that she would probably enjoy more getting a climb in, in the park than outside.. Thank you for any input you have, your reccomendations have saved me a couple hours of research :) Mike
I think you will be sadly disappointed if you go to zions based on the criteria that you posted. I can't think of a single route in the park that is 5.6 or 5.7 with a short approach. Granted I haven't climbed everything in the park, but I don't think you will find much of anything that will fit your criteria.

Personally, I would recommend going to snow canyon just northwest of St. George. You will find quite a few routes up to 4 pitches long in that grade range with mellow approaches on the same Navajo sandstone as zions.
Sean C · · SLC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 225

Led by Sheep

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Sean C wrote:Led by Sheep
And that's about it for routes that meet the OP criteria.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Ken Noyce wrote: I think you will be sadly disappointed if you go to zions based on the criteria that you posted. I can't think of a single route in the park that is 5.6 or 5.7 with a short approach. Granted I haven't climbed everything in the park, but I don't think you will find much of anything that will fit your criteria. Personally, I would recommend going to snow canyon just northwest of St. George. You will find quite a few routes up to 4 pitches long in that grade range with mellow approaches on the same Navajo sandstone as zions.
Pssst!
It's Zion.
Mike Womack · · Orcutt, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,015

+1 for snow canyon state park. There's great trad/sport climbs up to 4 pitches long. Recommended routes in the 5.8ish grade are: stepping out, just desserts, and leopard skin.

John Ryter · · Golden, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 5

The Practice Cliffs in Zion have some pretty easy stuff, just get off at the Court of the Patriarchs shuttle stop and head up the road a little way. Only 4 short single-pitch climbs, so not quite the 4-pitch glory of Snow Canyon.

mountainproject.com/v/pract…

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Marc801 wrote: Pssst! It's Zion.
Technically correct, however, everyone I have ever met calls it Zions, so whatever.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746

You might try some of the more roadside climbing near St. George.

Zion is pretty limited in that grade range with a short approach.

Actually...Cave Route is pretty neat (stiff for a 5.7!). Short approach too.

Not sure a sore ankle might appreciate a crack climb, though...

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Dont be lazy. I get sick of this shit on MP, where people ask MP to plan their trip for them. Do you even care about your climbing trip at all? Do a little research on your own and show some intiative. Ask about particular routes or ideas you have researched.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Ken Noyce wrote: Technically correct, however, everyone I have ever met calls it Zions, so whatever.
Well, they're quite incorrect.
It's annoying. Sort of like saying you're going on a climbing trip to The Yosemities or Smithies Rock.
BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

^^or Red Rocks

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

Or, "the Sierras". Its Sierra. There's only one range.

Also, Greg M, wake up on the wrong side of the bed this morning? If you don't like it, don't waste your time reading or posting. Pretty simple.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Yes I did. Realized I was grumpy after posting that.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
BigB wrote:^^or Red Rocks
Which again is kind of funny considering that even the latest guidebook is called Red Rocks.
Ryan Hill · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 30
Mike Womack wrote:+1 for snow canyon state park. There's great trad/sport climbs up to 4 pitches long. Recommended routes in the 5.8ish grade are: stepping out, just desserts, and leopard skin.
Plus the camping there is never crowded and you can walk across the street from the climbs to a BBQ area under the cottonwood trees.

Combining Will's Rush, Stepping Out, and Thousand Pints of Lite will get you to the top of Island in the Sky in somewhere between 3 and 6 pitches (it has been a few years). The approach is easy, the climbing is mellow (5.9 crux on Stepping Out), and the top out is great. A couple rappels and some down climbing will get you back to the sandy wash you started in.

Another multi-pitch option is Prophesy Wall, which also offers easy camping and a quick approach.

Led By Sheep in Zion is fantastic, but I wouldn't call it a mellow approach. It involves a steep climb up slick rock that can be challenging on the way up and the way down. Definitely more involved than anything in Snow Canyon. The hike in, the climb, and the view from the top is well worth it though.
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Marc801 wrote: Sort of like saying you're going on a climbing trip to The Yosemities or Smithies Rock.
Except for the fact that nobody calls Yosemite Yosemities or Smith Smithies, it is much more similar to calling Red Rock Red Rocks which as I just pointed out, even the guidebook calls it by it's incorrect name because that name is so common.
Mike-Mayhem · · North Bend, WA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70
John Wilder wrote:If Southern Utah doesn't satisfy the bill, Red Rock is 2.5hrs south of Zion (and only 2hrs south from St George) - plenty of moderates here with an easy approach.
Red rock is the destination!! We are only stopping in that area for a little side trip!
Drew Spaulding · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,885
Ken Noyce wrote: Technically correct, however, everyone I have ever met calls it Zions, so whatever.
I've never heard that ever,,,, and it is annoying.
Mike-Mayhem · · North Bend, WA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70
grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:Dont be lazy. I get sick of this shit on MP, where people ask MP to plan their trip for them. Do you even care about your climbing trip at all? Do a little research on your own and show some intiative. Ask about particular routes or ideas you have researched.
I never asked you to plan my trip.. I assume that if you are local to the area and a decent person you could give some recommendations of your favorite climbs in that area.
BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340
Drew Spaulding wrote: BUT,,, people that have succumbed to the degradation of it's true name RED ROCKS, must have only started climbing there in the last 10 years. Whoever decided to call it Red Rock,,, should be sued.
this is uninformed and incorrect
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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