Getting Into Trad

Hey ya'll. Just wondering what some of your experiences have been in regards to the best way to get into trad climbing.

So far I've gathered some gear: cams, nuts, a hex or two. Enough to start. Plus draws.

I practice building anchors and tying knots nightly and place protection on the ground just to get used to it. I practice rappelling off of walls in a few places.

I typically climb indoors, top rope and bouldering 2-4 times weekly and pushing 5.11 indoors.

I'd love to start getting into trad climbing. What are some tips for actually getting out there and for other ways to build skills while I'm on the ground? How do I get a date?

Thanks!

As someone who started trad climbing last season I very much remember this situation.
I luckily had family and friends (thanks zoso and sunnyD) to show me the ropes. However in my own
Learning I did basically what you're doing. I fiddled with gear, read up on techniques, watched YouTube videos.

BUT

I learned 500 percent more in much less time actually climbing. Following was awesome being able to observe good placements etc. Taking the sharp end on easy climbs that I could focus on gear placements helped way more than books/videos. Also my more experiences followers would often comment on placements either giving an affirmative "this is good" or "this is crap" ratings to placements.

Hopefully that helps. Gear and reading only goes so far. Be safe and have fun.

Yes, following as many competent leaders as you can is the best and fastest way to learn.

Have you done much sport climbing outdoors? I started trad climbing last summer and I found my background in sport climbing to be very useful since I was already comfortable leading outside. I could just do easy climbs and focus on the gear without having to worry about the climbing.

Hi Allen,

Most people will tell you to find some experienced trad climbers and tag along. If this is an option for you, great! My girlfriend and I were looking to get into trad but didn't know anyone who was experienced. My approach was to give myself a quick introduction to the skills needed via John Long's Toprope Anchors book and followed that with a few days with paid guides. People seem to scoff at the idea of forking over the cash to hire a guide but in my experience it was worth every penny. My girlfriend and I have probably paid for a total of 5-6 full days. Is that overkill? Maybe, but we can now take on more ambitious climbing goals without our safety being the biggest crux of the day. Cheers, Safe climbing.

No shit, can we get a sticky FAQ for this type of question. There is a new thread about this every single day. Your question has been covered hundreds of times, do a search and go read a book.

You definitely can't learn from Mountain Project. You will get sketchy conflicting information. Find a experienced trad mentor. Where are you from?

Ranivorous Troglodyte wrote:If you're having a hard time getting an experienced leader just have a good attitude and flake the rope every opportunity you get. Bribe em' with beer and such. Also asking climbers in your local area what type of gear to have/buy for the particular area helps not waste money, saves weight, and have the right tools for the job.

Thanks!!

Joe Kain wrote:My approach was to give myself a quick introduction to the skills needed via John Long's Toprope Anchors book and followed that with a few days with paid guides. ...I have probably paid for a total of 5-6 full days. Is that overkill? Maybe, but we can now take on more ambitious climbing goals without our safety being the biggest crux of the day. Cheers, Safe climbing.

Awesome thanks for your feedback. I have a NOLs course coming up that I'm pumped about.... just don't want to wait. Good weather only lasts so long up here near Seattle!

Lane Aasen wrote:Have you done much sport climbing outdoors? I started trad climbing last summer and I found my background in sport climbing to be very useful since I was already comfortable leading outside. I could just do easy climbs and focus on the gear without having to worry about the climbing.

Not yet. Just getting into climbing. I had a strict "feet on the ground" policy for a few years (I.e. Backpacking and Mountaineering). Have become addicted to climbing this year. Sport climbing is definitely on my radar... finding some folks to climb with is something that I need to do. Have one buddy who is at about the same level as me, except slightly less addicted. Thanks for the input!

Brian wrote:You definitely can't learn from Mountain Project. You will get sketchy conflicting information. Find a experienced trad mentor. Where are you from?

I'm in the Pacific Borthwest, Seattle/Olympia area. The question of how to find a mentors, though.... sticking around, networking, generally being someone who has their head on straight and isn't afraid to do a little work are obviously going to make that happen. Still looking though!

I am completely self taught, way before indoor climbing gyms and MP.
Did a an entire season of outside top roping at different locations with different situations.
Got some good and encouraging advice from my elders at the time and started off with 5.6
Climb every one pitch 5.6 you can find, then every 5.7 , then every 5.8...
At the end of the season you'll will be ready for multi pitch.

You will make some mistakes.
Try to learn and evaluate each one and don't make that one again.

Doing is the best way to learn.
Be cautious, be smart, keep at it.

you're gonna die..

after getting past that fact, bring some gear to the local stones and practice placing them at eye level. Bring an aider/sling with you and bounce to see what holds and what doesnt.

@Chase and @Rob: wow thanks a lot guys. Appreciate your input a lot.

Spring break is coming up for me. Feelin' like I'll head over to Leavenworth despite the cold and dirtbag it in the boulder fields... on my off-days will probably try some eye level placements, or some placements at a reasonable height above my bouldering pads.

Perhaps I'll find a toprope partner if the weather is decent.

Thank you!

Travis Provin wrote:No shit, can we get a sticky FAQ for this type of question. There is a new thread about this every single day. Your question has been covered hundreds of times, do a search and go read a book.

Chill out man, he posted in the beginner's section. What's a hard ass front ranger like you doing trolling this section anyway. YOU clicked the link. You could have just ignored it instead of being an ass.

Allen Hart wrote:Spring break is coming up for me. Feelin' like I'll head over to Leavenworth despite the cold and dirtbag it in the boulder fields... on my off-days will probably try some eye level placements, or some placements at a reasonable height above my bouldering pads. Perhaps I'll find a toprope partner if the weather is decent. Thank you!

Hey, if you are going to Leavenworth, there are some great places to practice! I would recommend checking out Barney's Rubble since it has a good collection of easier boulders (The Hesitator, Rainbow) right next to a couple cracks with top access. 5.6 Crack is a great first trad lead.

Where's the requisite "you do not just get into trad" meme? Someone is slacking.

Allen Hart wrote:I'm in the Pacific Borthwest, Seattle/Olympia area. The question of how to find a mentors, though.... sticking around, networking, generally being someone who has their head on straight and isn't afraid to do a little work are obviously going to make that happen. Still looking though!

Well, if you're ever down PDX-way feel free to hit me up.

you got it Allen, its how I learned. You'll realize that placing gear isnt rocket science after awhile, but idea can be a little daunting at first. Btw welcome to MP! however in the future, try to do a search for the question you have in the forums. Theres alot of good info on here and pretty much every question possible has already been asked.

Lane Aasen wrote: Hey, if you are going to Leavenworth, there are some great places to practice! I would recommend checking out Barney's Rubble since it has a good collection of easier boulders (The Hesitator, Rainbow) right next to a couple cracks with top access. 5.6 Crack is a great first trad lead.

Good advice, just know that 5.8 crack on the left is a goofy one.

If you're comfortable on a slightly exposed scramble throwing a TR on classic crack is a great way to dial in hand jams. It's great for gear also.

Allen there is a Leavenworth climbers group on fb, it's not super active, but you may be able to find a partner for spring break on there.
Another good bet in the spring/summer is to just show up at lower town wall at index. Offer people post climb beers and you're guaranteed to link up with a group that will let you run some laps on their TR.

amazon.com/Traditional-Lead…

It's finals week for me, so precalculus work is piled high. Just getting back to this thread. Thank you guys! Just breached a few 5.11's I've been working on. Psyched to get my hands on some rock.

Healyje wrote: Well, if you're ever down PDX-way feel free to hit me up.

@Healyje, Wow, thank you, what an offer! I would absolutely love to! If I'm feeling feisty I'll hit you up once spring break starts in about two weeks. Maybe something will work out... and perhaps my little smart car will survive the drive down to PDX haha... Gratitude!

Chase Bowman wrote:you got it Allen, its how I learned. You'll realize that placing gear isnt rocket science after awhile, but idea can be a little daunting at first. Btw welcome to MP! however in the future, try to do a search for the question you have in the forums. Theres alot of good info on here and pretty much every question possible has already been asked.

Thanks for the welcome! You know, part of my intent in posting was to actually establish a connection with the community. I appreciate the opportunity to get to have some connection in the forum regarding getting into trad. Plus i'm getting to see how people engage. Will definitely do some searching though, it's an encyclopedia up in here. Every different perspective about all sorts of things.

Nick Drake wrote: Good advice, just know that 5.8 crack on the left is a goofy one. ...there is a Leavenworth climbers group on fb... Another good bet in the spring/summer is to just show up at lower town wall at index. Offer people post climb beers and you're guaranteed to link up with a group...

Hey thanks a lot!! Awesome!

Stagg54 Taggart wrote:https://www.amazon.com/Traditional-Lead-Climbing-Surviving-Learning/dp/0899972551/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489078925&sr=8-1&keywords=trad+climbing+surviving

Siiick thanks! and a book by a female climber. gracias :]

OP-   Don't think for a moment that the gym ratings have any correlation to outdoor climbing.   Have respect for the real thing, be cautious and considerate.  

That being said, get out and give stuff a try.  Stay safe and watch your spirit soar!