The ACR Quad Anchor??


Original Post
Jeffo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

Hi All,

Been putzing around with my pre tied ACR and decided to make it a quad.

Thoughts? Comments? Ideas?

ACR Quad 1

ACR Quad 2

ACR Quad 3

Iden Emam · · San Diego, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 45

Looks Good! I really like the quad for an anchor because it is bomber and self- equalizes pretty well. If there are three bolts at the anchor (like in this picture), you can take one of the double strand ends and split it between the two bolts on lockers.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,500

Aside from the bolts being too far apart, it looks fine if you like the quad. I never understood the point of them myself.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 204

I mean it's just a quad at that point. The ring adds nothing.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 0

Oh please, please tell me that the bolts in the example are just for convenience and that you don't really feel the need to equalize three modern bolts!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

ACR?

Marty C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

ACR - Alpine Cock Ring

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 95

Looks like my pre-tied quad, except you added a ring for...?

You are not going to leave the whole mess at the top of a route and rap off, and to use ht ering you need to untie, thread the rope through and retie, giving you multiple chances to mess up.

Jeffo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

@Hudon

No way Mark! Those bolts were just there as I was tinkering around. Note: even with the quad I only used two bolts.

Jeffo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 25

@Matt

The ring is a part of the ACR. It's tied onto the cordolette. So when I made a quad out of the cordolette the ring was a bystander...doing nothing really.

No it's not for rappelling. It's an anchor.

andrew.reed · · Manitou Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 15

Your knots are too far apart. Tighten that up to mitigate shock loading if a bolt were to fail.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0
Jeffo wrote:@Matt The ring is a part of the ACR. It's tied onto the cordolette. So when I made a quad out of the cordolette the ring was a bystander...doing nothing really. No it's not for rappelling. It's an anchor.
The ring is pointless in an ACR as well....
Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 95
Jeffo wrote:@Matt The ring is a part of the ACR. It's tied onto the cordolette. So when I made a quad out of the cordolette the ring was a bystander...doing nothing really. No it's not for rappelling. It's an anchor.
If you are using the ring (and I still don't get why you would0, I think there should be a wrap of the cord around it.
http://www.paulraphaelson.com/downloads/acr.pdf
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 0

Glad to hear it, Carry on.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 15

the only time equalization matters is when ice climbing or FA's or if you are dumb enough to do R and X rated trad lines that are Not FA's ;) On 99% of the climbs that actually get climbed regularly, clove into the bolt or big blue and call it good. Ice climbing I use something simeler but its just a perma tied sewn 4ft nylon runner. Super slick and fast for equalizeing 2 screws. I do NOT worry about extension in that case because the whole point of equalization is to keep one the the screws from blowing. Not plan for what happens when the screw blows... though I do have a plan for that as well....

Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

I would add a fourth bolt, just to be safe.

AndrewArroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Looks like you just used overhand knots. I like a figure 8 because it shortens up your length (assuming you're using a standard length cordelette) and because, well, you'll want to untie this thing someday and it's a lot easier with a figure 8 once someone's been hanging on your TR anchor all day.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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