Anyone ever climbed Modern Psychedelic in the Gunks?


Original Post
Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 45

Looks like yet another interesting climb/link-up highlighted in the Gunks App that I would not have noticed just using MP and the guidebook.

My question - is the line and crux roof relatively straightforward to find if you just head right before the Modern Times crux? Not much beta out there.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0
Logan Schiff wrote:Looks like yet another interesting climb/link-up highlighted in the Gunks App that I would not have noticed just using MP and the guidebook. My question - is the line and crux roof relatively straightforward to find if you just head right before the Modern Times crux? Not much beta out there.
I was never able to find the line - even after several forays.
Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 45

Well that is not super inspiring :) I take it you were able to retreat relatively easily at least?

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85

That' is an interesting question, I'm not an AP user, can you show me the line ?

I've climbed up and down all over that real estate.
On Psychedelic the Climbing is far right of Modern Times,

there is nothing straight-forward about the old line, that needs one to climb down back into the corner to start the long traverse....

Climbing out of the Psychedelic corner, Left, to the short slab that makes up the right edge of the 'Stack' or giant flake, that starts off of the GT ledge, and then up left to re-join Modern Times?

Merlin Larsen led from the base of the flake (off to the left of the corner) then up through a series of overlaps or tiers,to a similar reachy move and mantel. not finding it anymore inspiring as it missed the fun of coming out up through the corner. Then rather than climb the second ascent of the direct that I'd led, he went left at what is now a big bush.( see comments on variations)

(Jun 24, 2014)
From the ground, there is an Independent climb. (5.6 pg/r) It starts in an open book steps right at 20ft onto the blunt arête and then shadows the original line iwich s to the left by about 20 feet.
It is best to climb onto the GT ledge at the regular routes spot.( cleaned of debris )
so the thought was it was too similar to be itÂ’s own line.

The second pitch is the stuff,
Climb carefully up the stacked flake,
avoiding the mud and rubble on the GT ledge.
move up left then back & up left of center,

Or move more right easier, in corner on the edge of the flake
(can be wet)to top of the 'Stack or flake"
continueÂ…, up the regular Modern Times crux, Above the lip stay left . .. ..
The direct finish is :Â…

Stay left after the crux go up slab /face to the bush under the white cap stone .

(the bush is almost in the way nowadays, sling it as gear.)

The horizontal also takes big cam :
Many sizes will work.
( #3. 5, C4 is the biggest piece needed on the whole route)

Find the Amazing Hold at the edge of the overhang,
to the RIGHT of the bush (v2 breaks out left)
above A.H. are two sharp holes (Use 1? for gear)
if you need, the short person may
need to get a hold here to reach to the horizontal,

get gear ( & ) the gear at the horizontal,
(tri-cams,, #.75 BD C4 -or 1.5 Frnd size)

move up smooth clean -ed, white rock . . .
the streak between the lichen.

5.10b ?
(harder if you are short)
tall person has to have high step ability,

well protected with springy things & Tri-cams.

(v1) the left exit is short and stout; use crimps /side pulls to gain the ledge above, DonÂ’t touch the block that is sitting on the ledge (mantel) this is a Top of the cliff V2/3 Boulder problem.

The Bombay chimney, to the right of all the business just described,
escapes at about 5.7(r) and can house birds and mega-poop.

The Modern Times Direct and variations
One great long pitch from GT ledge

Trophy Hunter goes out left, variation 1 (5.11)

Christian Fracchia wrote: I did it twice last season and it actually had a fair amount of chalk on it. It's not chossy at all but the beginning blocks on MT, where the traverse begins, are hollow. If you've done MT more than once I would highly recommend doing it, it's a thriller.
Has anyone gone up the face/ slab up through the cap-stone; the Direct. . ?
the bush now blocks, V2

,.

.

Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 45

Thanks Michael. What I had in mind based on the app topo traverses right a little below the modern times crux/first roof move for a ways, maybe 20 feet or so, and busts through a roof somewhat right of the mantle move on MT maybe 10 feet or so, supposedly at 9+. Anyway sounds like there are lot of interesting options and that it won't be very straightforward.

Jon Po · · Mahwah, NJ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 100

I tried to onsight modern psychadelic in the summer of 2015. I couldn't find the traverse right so I ended up just doing Modern Times. I remember the traverse looked very chossy but easy if nothing fell off. It also looked kind of uninspiring to me.

Christian Fracchia · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 25
Marc801 wrote: I was never able to find the line - even after several forays.
I did it twice last season and it actually had a fair amount of chalk on it. It's not chossy at all but the beginning blocks on MT, where the traverse begins, are hollow.

If you've done MT more than once I would highly recommend doing it, it's a thriller.
Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 45

Thanks Chris. Yes, done MT a few times and excited to try this if not likely to get hopelessly lost figuring out where to pull the roof. Sounds like it's a go!

PS: I am yet to climb anything listed in the Gunks App with 3 or more stars that was not great.

Gunks Apps · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 45
Logan Schiff wrote:Thanks Chris. Yes, done MT a few times and excited to try this if not likely to get hopelessly lost figuring out where to pull the roof. Sounds like it's a go! PS: I am yet to climb anything listed in the Gunks App with 3 or more stars that was not great.
Modern Psychedelic
Gunks Apps · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 45

Follow the rope line in the photo. When you hit an great #2 or #3 Camalot horizontal head straight up (committing crux) to a really bad stance below a small roof. Continue straight through the roof to the ledge after the crux on MT.

Gunks Apps Modern Psychedelic

Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 45

Awesome, thanks! Psyched to try this spring.

Brian Shaffer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 35

Logan bring a second #3 or a #2 because you are going to blow it big time on this one.

Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 45

LOL. Yes, already planning to put in two pieces there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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