Mountain Project Logo

Best guidebook for the Flatirons?


Original Post
Sam Root · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Hey guys! I'm hoping that somebody is able to help me out.. My brother goes to school in Boulder and wanted to go and visit him for spring break and do some climbing in the area. I'm hoping to climb a bit of trad and sport and wondered if anybody had recommendations?? I heard Jason Haas's book is pretty good? Any info is appreciated!

Sam Root

Tony Luchetta · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 30

Jason's book will have everything you need and then some.

Jonny d · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 40

My recommendation? Make your visit count by getting out to Eldo, Boulder Canyon, Lumpy, etc. The Flatirons are a junkshow and definitely not worth it.

Sam Root · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Jonny D, do you know of a good book for those areas?? And anything in particular you recommend? Thanks a lot!

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
Jonny d wrote: The Flatirons are a junkshow and definitely not worth it.
Jonny is incorrect. There are some magical spots in the flatirons.
OTOH, queuing up for the First or Third may not yield a wilderness experience.

If you could share a little more about what you are looking for, in terms of difficulty, style, commitment, etc, you would get better advice as to particular areas and routes.
Sam Root · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Mark E Dixon wrote: Jonny is incorrect. There are some magical spots in the flatirons. OTOH, queuing up for the First or Third may not yield a wilderness experience. If you could share a little more about what you are looking for, in terms of difficulty, style, commitment, etc, you would get better advice as to particular areas and routes.
I'd love to do some easier trad climbing (up to 5.10ish) and sport climbing up in the 11s or so. Honestly just looking for some beautiful and fun climbs in the area! Multi pitches would be cool as well.. Any advice is super helpful!
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
Sam Root wrote: I'd love to do some easier trad climbing (up to 5.10ish) and sport climbing up in the 11s or so. Honestly just looking for some beautiful and fun climbs in the area! Multi pitches would be cool as well.. Any advice is super helpful!
Are you going to be able to climb during the week, or only on weekends?
Sam Root · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0
Mark E Dixon wrote: Are you going to be able to climb during the week, or only on weekends?
I'll be there for about 10 days from the 19th to the 29th.. Does the area get pretty busy during the weekends?
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
Sam Root wrote: Does the area get pretty busy during the weekends?
Yes, very.

You should consider retitling your thread to something like "classic routes to climb near Boulder during spring break" or start a new thread if you want some suggestions.

I'm no expert ut here are a few.

The First flatiron by the north ridge or east face is classic. On a weekday.
The Maiden, by the north face (east ridge supposed to be good, but I havent done it.) Probably ok on a weekend. Seal Rock by the east face too, less classic, but also uncrowded.

You should do something in Eldo, Bastille crack, Rewritten, Yellow Spur among the options. On a weekday.

In Bocan, maybe visit Animal World, Avalon or Upper Dream Canyon, again on weekdays.

Clear Creek has an industrial feel to it, nevertheless I really love the area.

Although often crowded, nearly all the routes at teh Canal Zone are good. Likewise Cat Slab.
Jim Turner · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 290

Books for Eldo, Boulder Canyon, Lumpy. Lumpy might be cold during spring break, the other two are better odds of nice weather.

Books
Long Ranger · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 75

Gambit (Shirt Tail Peak) is under the raptor closure, I do believe.

Sam Root · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

I really appreciate all the info guys! Definitely had never heard of the raptor closures before, super cool though. So excited to get down there and check out the area!

slevin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,003
Long Ranger wrote:Gambit (Shirt Tail Peak) is under the raptor closure, I do believe.
According to the ECSP website there are currently no closures in the Park.
Tim Meehan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 260

Hey Sam. If you want, you can PM me when you're in town. I can help you find good spots based on what your up for that day, and what the weather is doing.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

The flatirons are awesome. Sure it's run out slab climbing on some janky rock, but I LOVE being up there high above the city. Super long easier (if you want it) routes.

Jason's book is the best, but don't forget about Gerry Roach's compiliation.

amazon.com/Flatiron-Classic…

John Tex · · Estes · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 25

Wait a second, no closures in eldo this year?! That seems strange.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 75

That DOES seem strange, but jives with what's listed, here:

cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

(as of 3/2/17)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply