Cedar Rock, WTF did I climb?


Original Post
. · · Asheville NC · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 280

Climbed on Dandy Line today at cedar rock, have done P1 in the past, thought it would be fun to top out and do P2. Yelled down to belayer and asked him to look in the book. "It goes right of the roof"

I look over and see the anchors for Sugo Se Pulcrum AKA Hemlock Graveyard, above that I see more bolts that go up and right of the roof. This is where I made a mistake.

I brought my belayer up, traversed over to the Hemlock Graveyard anchors, slug them long and climbed up to the bolt above them next to the water groove. I cross the water groove and after some very difficult slab climbing, pulling on draws and maybe 5 more bolts I get within 10ft of the top and have zero desire to try and top out through the moss and choss and wetness with a bolt ~20ft below me, so I bail. I could see the tat on the big tree for what I assume would be dandy line about 25ft left of me.

What did I climb?
maybe P2 for the WI3 ice climb that covers Dandy line in winter?

None of these bolts above Hemlock Graveyard are marked in the "Cedar Rock and Satellite Crags" book by Reardon/Woolf

looking up, marked the dandy line anchors, and hemlock graveyard anchors. Tree with green line had Tat on it. also marked the first three bolts I followed and the one random on Hemlock

about to bail

bail. The largest tree in this pic had the tat at the base.

Mike Reardon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 910

Looks like a new line by someone? Also, the groove looks neat in the pic- how many bolts were on it? (I'm updating topos).

P2 of Dandy Line, from what I understood, goes more or less straight up from the DL anchors and is pretty run out/ rarely down.

. · · Asheville NC · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 280
Mike Reardon wrote:Looks like a new line by someone? Also, the groove looks neat in the pic- how many bolts were on it? (I'm updating topos). P2 of Dandy Line, from what I understood, goes more or less straight up from the DL anchors and is pretty run out/ rarely down.
Yes very cool slab groove route with lots of open hand smears and smedging. I would agree looks like a new line, was hoping that the someone who bolted it would chime in. I am going to guess there were 5 or 6 bolts on it, I cannot recall exactly, they were good looking stainless bolts and hangers although it looked like one was not stainless and the bolt head was rusty. The route trended slightly right of the biggest groove on the face. I am guessing this to be 5.10b or very likely harder slab, I hung on every bolt like a big weenie and had to down climb and regain composure at one point although the cordalette harness might have played a roll in that haha. I just wish there were rings at the top. Conditions were not optimal when I climbed it as there was water running in the groove.

I was able to place a red X4 at one point.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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