Indian Creek Anchor Replacement


Original Post
Sam Feuerborn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 640

Hey All,

It's once again that time of year where the Creek becomes comfortably climbable.

As you're out and see anchors that need some love or are dusting cobwebs off of those memories, post up here so they have a chance to be updated. The ASCA has been diligently working at updating anchors so no one is forced to bail off of flexing angles or have their partners stand on a single star drive or wonder if that nest of tat will hold another party.

Thanks for the help!

If you are keen on getting involved with anchor replacements in the desert feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll help however I can.

Send hard and check those knots!

This lil' stud pulled by hand.

Some of the tat and worn hardware from last season's efforts.


BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

damn that bolt looks new and it ...."just pulled out by hand"?


Sam Feuerborn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 640
BigB wrote:damn that bolt looks new and it ...."just pulled out by hand"?
Sure did!

Buddin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Free Berlin on cat wall. Bolted anchor at top of p2 just has old sun faded slings tied to the hangers for rapping. This is an excellent Yosemite style multi pitch that needs some love.


Aaron Livingston · · Moab, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 90

Sam! A few routes at scarface could use some love. Torque wrench has one good bolt but it isn't properly equalized with the SH hanger and the SMC so it might be worth looking at. Twitch has 2 SMC hangars with no chain and some tat, twitch is definitely in desperate need of help, torque wrench can wait. Hope to see you soon vuddy!


Aaron Livingston · · Moab, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 90

And even though it isn't a super classic, "for dewey" could use chain for sure. I haven't been up to check out the bolts but hopefully I will later in the season.


Sam Feuerborn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 640

Which wall is For Dewey at? Thanks for the input!


Scott Robertson · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2002 · Points: 50

Sam, you're the man, thanks for all your efforts.


Aaron Livingston · · Moab, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 90

It's a tips crack at scarface between big guy and wavy gravy.


Matt Pierce · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 183

Please consider donating. Even a few $ will help.

http://www.safeclimbing.org/help.htm


Sam Feuerborn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 640
Matt Pierce wrote:Please consider donating. Even a few $ will help. safeclimbing.org/help.htm
+1,000,000

Sam Feuerborn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 640

It's not just the tops of the climbs that need love, consider joining the Access Fund on the 18th for some trail work, fitness and a free tan!

https://www.facebook.com/events/164721837371649/


Joe Stern · · Moab, Utah · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,435

Lieutenant Uhuru is another Scarface route that could use some love. Current anchor is two drilled angles with a newer bolt up higher, all connected with tat. Needs chain and the bolt could use some wrenching.


Sam Feuerborn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 640

Thanks Joe!


Dave Alie · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 30

In the interest of aggregating a comprehensive list, I think the anchor at the top of Blue Gramma could stand an update, especially considering how frequently that route gets done. I'd be happy to contribute to the replacement effort next time I'm in the desert. Thanks to everyone who works to keep desert climbing alive.


Sam Feuerborn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 640

Thanks Dave!


Trevor. · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 731

Hey Sam,
The anchors on both of the routes in the chimney behind Slice and Dice need some lovin'. New bolts for sure on Closed Course, and probably just add some chains to Renegades of Funk. Not sure if they made it onto your list last fall or not. Hope to see you down there!


M HawkMan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0

A lot of anchors at Selfish Wall need replacing/updating


Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
BigB wrote:damn that bolt looks new and it ...."just pulled out by hand"?
30LBS of torque is more then people would assume.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,498
Tylerpratt wrote: 30LBS of torque is more then people would assume.
Actually with that type of crappy 3/8" expansion bolt, the max installation torque is more like 12 ft-lbs even for carbon steel.

Here's a similar bolt that should never be used for climbing (but you'll find on routes):
http://www.powers.com/product_06160.php

The strength on that style 3/8" sleeve bolt is barely stronger than a 1/4" buttonhead!

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Wow! Fuck that hardware...


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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