Beginner Trad Advice???
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Hello all, |
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Delete this thread and look up existing threads |
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1. Read this then read it again |
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Since you sounds like you don't know any competent trad climbers, I would suggest hiring a guide. They would give you a good solid base of knowledge instead of some random person you befriend just so you can learn trad. Once you have some fundamentals down from a professional source you can go out with other people. This way you can at least know when they're fucking up and not being safe instead of being oblivious. |
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Andrew, I am in the Austin area, and there is a very active and friendly climbing community here. If you want to learn some trad at E-Rock, consider joining the Austin Climbing Group on FB, where people frequently post for plans and partners. You shouldn't have any trouble finding a group to join or someone to go out there with you. |
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Most of the basics have been covered, but I'll add regional specific beta: I'd focus your attention south (ERock), not north (Wichita). I've heard good things about the climbing there (supposed to be bomber granite), but the ethics are a little severe and there seems to be an unhealthy obsession with R or X-rated routes, meaning the protection is poor and you can kill yourself if you fall. I may be wrong about this and I'd love for an OK native to chime in and tell me I'm wrong, but the impression I get is that it'd be a hard place to learn trad. |
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Thanks for all the help! |
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climbing friend, |
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Ted sort of has it right, we have a lot of X&R in Ok. Most at quartz. If you're a strong 11 climber 5.7 run out slab in Ok should be a breeze. EDIT; (I was tired when I got in last night) Not sure where Ted formed his opinion that there is an "unhealthy obsession" with R and X in OK, or that you'll get hurt or killed here LOL. Probably from my posts as most OK climbers aren't very vocal on here, again LOL, |
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Choose popular routes and read route-specific MountainProject comments. Usually you will find gear beta, sometimes even comments indicating that the route (is or isn't) a good first trad lead. |
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If you like chossy or blank faces with some cracks then the Wichitas and Enchanted Rock are for you. But you have to post about your sick 5.9 R that you sent over the weekend or they won't let you back. |
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Or PM me, I'll give you a list that will keep you busy (and alive) for a year once you're comfortable with your placements. JB |
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jmmlol wrote:If you like chossy or blank faces with some cracks then the Wichitas and Enchanted Rock are for you. But you have to post about your sick 5.9 R that you sent over the weekend or they won't let you back.Lol troll........;) |
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John Barritt wrote:Lol troll........;)There's a reason only Oklahoma climbers and bored Dallas climbers with racks go to the Wichitas. |
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climbing friend, |
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John Barritt wrote:Ted sort of has it right, we have a lot of X&R in Ok. Most at quartz. If you're a strong 11 climber 5.7 run out slab in Ok should be a breeze. EDIT; (I was tired when I got in last night) Not sure where Ted formed his opinion that there is an "unhealthy obsession" with R and X in OK, or that you'll get hurt or killed here LOL. Probably from my posts as most OK climbers aren't very vocal on here, again LOL, Not sure what "severe ethics" are either, there aren't any climbing police in the WMWR but you do need a permit to bolt. If not wanting added bolts to existing routes, not wanting modified holds, and not having our slabs turn into the gym is considered "severe" then maybe (I am) we are.Mainly from stuff like this: mountainproject.com/v/quart… Again, not to say that he shouldn't climb in Ok, but more that ERock will be a more pleasant place to learn. Easy access, occasional bolted anchors, solid gear...and no "XX" routes. |
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Ted Pinson wrote: Mainly from stuff like this: mountainproject.com/v/quart… Again, not to say that he shouldn't climb in Ok, but more that ERock will be a more pleasant place to learn. Easy access, occasional bolted anchors, solid gear...and no "XX" routes.What? No XX? Just kidding.... I hear you, quartz is a nervy place. The WMWR not so much. It's there too but you have to seek it out. Lots of good trad to be had and some condensed areas offer a lot of choices per stop. The refuge is 2.5hr from Dallas too. Hooper and I followed Duane around in the early 80s, Russell would have us on anything new before the chalk was gone. No telling how many second party ascents we bagged. It wasn't really an obsession with run outs as much as if there wasn't a stance or Duane was comfortable he would keep going. Most of the bolting was done with hand drills. It just evolved into a style. I learned a lot from those days. A cool head is worth more than anything in this sport. It's important to note that in older OK guidebooks R means run out. Not quite the same as it's present meaning on here. JB |
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Good to know! |