Death By A Thousand Cuts


Original Post
Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 490

Is it me or do the new grippy gym holds rip the s@#t out of your shins/knees/arms? I love them, much preferable over polished BS, but my legs look like I've been bushwhacking through devil's club in the North Cascades.

n00b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 40
Jplotz wrote:Is it me or do the new grippy gym holds rip the s@#t out of your shins/knees/arms? I love them, much preferable over polished BS, but my legs look like I've been bushwhacking through devil's club in the North Cascades.
If this is a problem for you, I humbly suggest you need to work on your technique. I can understand the occasional shin or elbow scrape from working a tight chimney or dihedral, but I can't fathom why it would occur more than occasionally.
Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 490

My technique is flawless, and will not be questioned.

D-Storm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 250

My skin gets scraped up from textured gym holds, too. Seems to happen when the thin, hard route I'm climbing goes up the same part of the wall as an easy jug route that has large volumes. I hurt my elbow pretty good in December because of this when I slipped off the start of a vertical crimp fest and the side of my arm thwacked a large, yellow volume as I fell (a crazy golfball-size balloon of a bruise swelled up near the joint on my inner elbow). When it comes to vert, I wish setters would consider the consequences of putting a 5.9 on the same bolt line as a 12. Until then, leading vertical gym routes is pretty much a no-fall situation.

calebmmallory · · Seattle, N.Carolina, &Hong ... · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 175
Jplotz wrote:My technique is flawless, and will not be questioned.
This made my morning! +1
n00b · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 40
D-Storm wrote:My skin gets scraped up from textured gym holds, too. Seems to happen when the thin, hard route I'm climbing goes up the same part of the wall as an easy jug route that has large volumes. I hurt my elbow pretty good in December because of this when I slipped off the start of a vertical crimp fest and the side of my arm thwacked a large, yellow volume as I fell (a crazy golfball-size balloon of a bruise swelled up near the joint on my inner elbow). When it comes to vert, I wish setters would consider the consequences of putting a 5.9 on the same bolt line as a 12. Until then, leading vertical gym routes is pretty much a no-fall situation.
Why the heck would you increase injury risk by lead climbing in a gym?
s.price · · PS,CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,038

How do you beat yourself up so much with flawless technique? My technique is far from flawless and do not have issues like those you describe.

Thin skin and weak troll?

Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,240

Brand new gym holds are pretty harsh to climb on. But they wear down over time to a period where they are still grippy but not yet polished.

Its Isaac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
D-Storm wrote: Until then, leading vertical gym routes is pretty much a no-fall situation.
uhhhhhh

what
John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 888

This seems like a thread I should be involved in, but I say No......No....No

;)

Jon Nelson · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 4,425
Jplotz wrote:Is it me or do the new grippy gym holds rip the s@#t out of your shins/knees/arms? I love them, much preferable over polished BS, but my legs look like I've been bushwhacking through devil's club in the North Cascades.
I have the same problem, particularly with my klutsy knees. Usually, I bring a stretchy fabric knee protector, which takes care of that. I still scrape up my elbows and shoulder sometimes though.
John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 888

Sheesh....you guys are killin' me. Have you tried pants? Maybe a long sleeve shirt? I'm sure the gym will turn down the temp if you get too hot.....

No.....No......No....

Brassmonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

Dude, over half the holds at my gym are literally 20 years old and more polished than the feet on D Betty at Rifle.

Accept it, love it, enjoy it.

Gotta be kidding me...

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 438

Are you sure it's the holds? Looks like that new gym has walltopia walls, with the sandpaper of death finish. I usually climb in shorts and if brush the wall with a knee (my turnout range of motion is flawed and can be questioned) it'll go pink to red. I just deal with it.

Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 490
Nick Drake wrote:Are you sure it's the holds? Looks like that new gym has walltopia walls, with the sandpaper of death finish. I usually climb in shorts and if brush the wall with a knee (my turnout range of motion is flawed and can be questioned) it'll go pink to red. I just deal with it.
Man I love the RRG! I had to find something to complain about. Send me a text or email Nick if you're ever lacking a partner. We'll go shred and leave some blood.
Tyler Lomprey · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 5

polished holds rule!! wood holds for the win all day!!

Joe Petroske · · North Bend, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 15

A gym I used to go to set a ton of volumes such that if your feet slip, its an almost guaranteed shin bang. Back when I had shoes with shitty rubber (my technique was flawless, just bad shoes...) I banged my shins quite a bit, combined with banging them a few times outside. This resulted in my shins looking like absolute shit for a while and I had to start wearing jeans while I climbed so my shins could repair themselves without the scabs being torn off.

Now I go to a different I seem to be fine, but my fingertips still are permanently missing a couple layers of skin.

simplyput · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

'Death By A Thousand Cuts'
Sick route name.

r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

Wish technology would improve, or economics, and we got more abrasive indoor climbs. Polished as fuck plastic is going to cause me to blow a foothold then a ligament one day.

NorCalNomad · · San Francisco · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 55

So much crying, where is Aleks

Jona Dul · · New Milford, CT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15

i'd consider that a win-win honestly. if i dont bleed because of the climb i havent climbed hard enough that session, indoor or out. its a marker for personal sucess ever since i learned how to do things right. this can be as small as a finger scrape,and may not be the best thing to think, but gives me things to think back on when im bored on rest days

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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