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Gear beta for Smith Rock...Do I need big gear?

Original Post
Kons Kourbatov · · Aurora, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 73

Visiting a friend in late March and going to Smith for like 4 days. What's considered a standard rack in Smith? Doubles of 3 and below? Do I need wide stuff? Are there any offwidth in Smith? I've glanced at some of the routes and haven't really seen anything bigger than a 3.

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 1,630

There's occasionally cause to bring a #4, but it's certainly the exception. I haven't carried one into the park for a long, long time. (and I don't know if I've ever brought a #5 or #6) What're you planning on doing?

Zachary Winters · · Mazama, Washington · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 207

I tend to leave the rack if climbing at the main area. My preference is for gear routes but the sport climbs at Smith are excellent and IMO the gear routes in the main area tend to be a little funky. The exception being the Lower Gorge. Fantastic gear lines. If you're leading 5.8 trad and 5.11 sport, you might have the best experience if you bring a rack of draws. A lot of the Lower Gorge climbs are in the 5.10-11 range. That said, if you have a specific multipitch in mind you might take what you need for that...

Nick Young · · Spokane, WA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 215

Depends on what level you're leading at - a lot of the 5-easy stuff will take big gear if you want it, but it's far from necessary. As others have said, while their is some fun trad at Smith, the sport is world class. You'd be fine with a standard rack (set of nuts, .3-3 with doubles in hand sizes), but your time will be well spent enjoying the sport lines and bolted multipitch that Smith has to offer.

Michael Swanson · · Oregon · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

There's not usually a cause to bring the wide stuff for climbs at Smith. I would recommend one #4 for the last pitch of Moscow, but for the most part I would say a rack up to 3 would be plenty.

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

Only decent OW'ish thing I've done at Smith was Cliffdweller Crack, 5.8. Takes up to 5". Loose start, great middle crack groveling, and fun finish. Pretty sure it sees only a couple ascents a decade.

Rattlesnake Chimney 5.6 will take up to 6" cams, but not mandatory. Only climb this if you like smelly, dirty, guano filled shenanigans. One star in the book was being kind, but it is a nice alternative to crimping pebbles if you are into that sort of "fun". Finish up on Bunny Face's upper 30-40'.

Otherwise I usually don't bother with more than a single #4 piece.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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