I'm curious about the discrepancy between the AID rack and the FREE rack for Moonlight Buttress.
Free rack (from MP): 3 each Blue Aliens (equivalent to #0 TCU's) 5 each Green Aliens (equivalent to #1 TCU's) 5 each 0.4 Camalots 6 each 0.5 Camalots 1 each 0.75 Camalot and #1 Camalot (crucial for the 5.11 traverse) A half set of medium wires (offsets handy) 3 draws and 3 slings
Aid Rack (from MP): -Lots of TCUs, especially red and yellow aliens. We had six of each and were pretty comfortable. You could do with less, but at least triples, and at least doubles in the other TCUs. Narrower brands are nicer because they are all pin-scarred placements. -Doubles in cams to a #3. Double set of stoppers with triples from #6 to #11. Offsets would be useful. -Big Bros 2 and 3; maybe 4 also. 2 Hooks. -Small tricams and a set of hexes to fill it up.
The free rack is saying nothing bigger than a #1 Camelot whereas the Aid rack has big bros listed. Curious to hear anyone's experience and what you would recommend so we don't die/cry.
reboot wrote:You don't need that many blue aliens, maybe 1 each of blue & black. There are a few moves of chimneying at the start of the 12- pitch (after the "crux" lieback pitch) that no self-respecting free party would place pro.
Right on thanks for feedback! We respect the route, we respect the climbing community, and we are still working on respecting ourselves...
We use cookies to improve your browsing experience, to show you
personalized content, and for statistical purposes. By continuing
to navigate our website, you accept our use of cookies. Read our
Privacy Policy to learn more.