Moonlight Buttress (Free) Rack


Original Post
Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

I'm curious about the discrepancy between the AID rack and the FREE rack for Moonlight Buttress.

Free rack (from MP):
3 each Blue Aliens (equivalent to #0 TCU's)
5 each Green Aliens (equivalent to #1 TCU's)
5 each 0.4 Camalots
6 each 0.5 Camalots
1 each 0.75 Camalot and #1 Camalot (crucial for the 5.11 traverse)
A half set of medium wires (offsets handy)
3 draws and 3 slings

Aid Rack (from MP):
-Lots of TCUs, especially red and yellow aliens. We had six of each and were pretty comfortable. You could do with less, but at least triples, and at least doubles in the other TCUs. Narrower brands are nicer because they are all pin-scarred placements.
-Doubles in cams to a #3. Double set of stoppers with triples from #6 to #11. Offsets would be useful.
-Big Bros 2 and 3; maybe 4 also. 2 Hooks.
-Small tricams and a set of hexes to fill it up.

The free rack is saying nothing bigger than a #1 Camelot whereas the Aid rack has big bros listed. Curious to hear anyone's experience and what you would recommend so we don't die/cry.

Thanks!
-Dan

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 50

You don't need that many blue aliens, maybe 1 each of blue & black.

There are a few moves of chimneying at the start of the 12- pitch (after the "crux" lieback pitch) that no self-respecting free party would place pro.

Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
reboot wrote:You don't need that many blue aliens, maybe 1 each of blue & black. There are a few moves of chimneying at the start of the 12- pitch (after the "crux" lieback pitch) that no self-respecting free party would place pro.
Right on thanks for feedback! We respect the route, we respect the climbing community, and we are still working on respecting ourselves...
Aaron Livingston · · Moab, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 90

I found the free rack from mtn project to be spot on when I went up there

Dan Vinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
Aaron Livingston wrote:I found the free rack from mtn project to be spot on when I went up there
Thanks Aaron!

I hope it stops raining in Yosemite by May...
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply